Replies to This Discussion

Permalink Reply by Andy J on July 14, 2014 at 6:33am

Can't help you with the tires (I just switch over to knobbies on my 26" commuter) but I can tell you that once temps drop, the North Branch Trail freezes over regularly, making it hazardous for man or machine to cross.

• ▶ Reply

Permalink Reply by David P. on July 14, 2014 at 6:39am

If your 800 is one of the early years of the 26" wheeled MTB, there is no reason to use 700c wheels unless you happen to already have a set with the tires you wanted, which does not appear to be the case. There is plenty of selection of studded tires in 26" if that is what you want to use, and you will have plenty of clearance in the frame for the tires and fenders.

I find studded tires useful for the worst 10% of winter and early spring, depending on the particular winter. Most of the time, something like a Pasela is just fine, especially if you are riding on streets like Milwaukee that get squeegeed clean  by S&S as soon as snow falls. The likely conditions on trails like the NBT that do not receive the same level of winter maintenance, or may not receive any maintenance at all, will suggest different tires, like knobbies or studs or at least something with more volume than a 35mm tire.

If you get studded tires, don't cheap out - get a set with carbide studs. Stud wear is dramatically different.  Schwalbe and Nokian make a variety of options, though there may be cheaper ones. My Nokian W106es are very good tires, but are also very difficult to mount and dismount, and since I've now got two bikes worth of SS wheels, for next year I will just keep them permanently mounted on one set and swap in as needed. I did not use them at all last year, though I wished to on a few days.

David

• ▶ Reply

Permalink Reply by Mike Zumwalt on July 14, 2014 at 7:00am

I rode a mountain Bike Trek 820 with knobby 26" just fine. The main roads are usually salted and slushy and if not you can ride the snow easy enough.

I avoid most parks/trails because they aren't really cleaned like the roads and any salt they put down needs to have heavy traffic for it to work and then you have the random patches of ice with snow on top...

Never did studded so your guess is as good as mine. As long as we don't have a winter like the one past you'll be good.

• ▶ Reply

Permalink Reply by Tricolor on July 14, 2014 at 9:08am

Big fenders are the main thing you need for commuting in general.  Wet ground is bad at any time of the year and more common in the winter.  Studs are debatable; on days with lots of ice I normally don't bother with the bike.

• ▶ Reply

Permalink Reply by OldGuyCyclist on July 14, 2014 at 10:05am

+1 on not riding some days in the winter, and also the big fenders, Tricolor.

I usually wait a couple of days after a snowfall for snow/ice to recede a bit on the streets.  Otherwise the navigable area of the roadway can be too narrow.  (I hardly rode at all this past winter!)

Try to keep your drive train well lubed through the winter. Boeshield T-9 is a good lube/rust preventative for your chain.  The spray version is easier to apply than the drip bottles that are marketed to cyclists.  (However, I'm sure some object to the CFCs.)

Also, keep your face -- especially your neck -- covered with a balaclava or similar.  It's amazing what a difference this makes in cold weather comfort.  I've even seen some riders wear ski masks on really cold days. It's dorky, but I may try it myself this coming winter. ;-)

Tricolor said:

Big fenders are the main thing you need for commuting in general.  Wet ground is bad at any time of the year and more common in the winter.  Studs are debatable; on days with lots of ice I normally don't bother with the bike.

• ▶ Reply

Permalink Reply by Chitown_Mike on July 14, 2014 at 10:31am

Thanks for the replies all!

I did some very limited commuting this past winter, and I have a lot of cold weather clothing (balaclava and such) and enjoyed it.  Need better gloves though....

I did it with the 26" tires but on a set of Continental Double Fighter IIs which are great when dry....not so much when wet.  And I use Finishline wet lube for the chain (stuff is amazing!) and not a spec of rust on a chain I replaced right before the winter.  I will probably rebuild the wheel I have with a new hub to avoid having to stretch the frame (the threads are gone for the freewheel) and get some tires.

And thanks for all the replies on carbide studs, didn't know there was a difference but will keep my eye out as I need to.  Might have a line on a good set of used studded tires to have just in case.  And on the bad days momma and the boys can take dad to work if they need the car.

Any thoughts on the "more studs the better" when it comes to studded tires?  I ride like a maniac at times just because.

• ▶ Reply