A while ago I was near "The Green Mill"/"Crew" and I saw 6 bicycles locked within 15 feet of each other that were locked horribly. Most of them used cheap keyed cable locks securing only their frame or frame and front wheel to rack/post. 1 had the cheapest U-lock possible securing only the frame. 4 out of 6 all had quick releases, the ones that secured their front wheel didn't have quick release.
There were 2 that were exceptionally bad though. One had a knockoff Kryptoflex cable locking his frame and front wheel, the cable was held together with a high school style Master lock to the rack. The other actually had a decent U-lock (not sure of brand) but the U-lock was only secured to the frame, the part that secured the bike to the rack was a very thin piece of cable that was attached to the U-lock going around the bicycle rack.
The items that I linked aren't precisely the same ones but are very similar items to give you an idea of what I'm talking about.
Tags:
What do you base this statement on?
Are you more experienced than my LBS owners who recommend ABUS?
Do you have access to enough theft reports to say this?
h' 1.0 said:
This can not be overemphasized:
The folding ABUS locks are not appropriate as a primary lock in Chicago, and provide nowhere near the security of a $40 Kryptonite U-lock. I will go as far as to say that I hope any shop that sells them in Chicago without a clear warning to the buyer goes out of business.
This is about the point where I stop reading this thread because of statements with no backing.
I did read the thread and I just re-read this thread. I can't seem to find anyone in this thread mentioning having their own bike stolen.
There was one mention of two folding locks being cut, but even Kevin C, who posted that, said that he hadn't seen the locks, but the descriptions seemed pretty clear that the lock was broken rather than cut.
All the "independent" reviews that I've recently read online mention that nearly all locks can be cut in 2-3 minutes with an angle grinder.
Oh, I don't know, tell me why I think that you should know anything about bike theft in Chicago.
So again I ask, what do you base this statement on?
Bye.
h' 1.0 said:
Read the thread, Michael. I base it on how easily these locks are being defeated. Actual reports from actual victims. One without any tools- just snapped at one of the joints. A grinder would take 1/3 of the time to cut through one than for a $40 U-lock.
I am not sure why you think an LBS owner would know more about bike theft in Chicago than I do.
Michael J Blane 6.5 said:What do you base this statement on?
Are you more experienced than my LBS owners who recommend ABUS?
Do you have access to enough theft reports to say this?
h' 1.0 said:This can not be overemphasized:
The folding ABUS locks are not appropriate as a primary lock in Chicago, and provide nowhere near the security of a $40 Kryptonite U-lock. I will go as far as to say that I hope any shop that sells them in Chicago without a clear warning to the buyer goes out of business.
His years of experience with the Stolen Bike Database. He DOES know what he's talking about.
Michael J Blane 6.5 said:
This is about the point where I stop reading this thread because of statements with no backing.
I did read the thread and I just re-read this thread. I can't seem to find anyone in this thread mentioning having their own bike stolen.
There was one mention of two folding locks being cut, but even Kevin C, who posted that, said that he hadn't seen the locks, but the descriptions seemed pretty clear that the lock was broken rather than cut.
All the "independent" reviews that I've recently read online mention that nearly all locks can be cut in 2-3 minutes with an angle grinder.
Oh, I don't know, tell me why I think that you should know anything about bike theft in Chicago.
So again I ask, what do you base this statement on?
Bye.
Thank you.
Anne Alt said:
His years of experience with the Stolen Bike Database. He DOES know what he's talking about.
Michael J Blane 6.5 said:This is about the point where I stop reading this thread because of statements with no backing.
I did read the thread and I just re-read this thread. I can't seem to find anyone in this thread mentioning having their own bike stolen.
There was one mention of two folding locks being cut, but even Kevin C, who posted that, said that he hadn't seen the locks, but the descriptions seemed pretty clear that the lock was broken rather than cut.
All the "independent" reviews that I've recently read online mention that nearly all locks can be cut in 2-3 minutes with an angle grinder.
Oh, I don't know, tell me why I think that you should know anything about bike theft in Chicago.
So again I ask, what do you base this statement on?
Bye.
H'....
I don't think you (or Michael J Blane) derailed the thread in any way. It was a valid question and your reply was very insightful for those of us without the extensive knowledge you have on the subject of bike locks being defeated.
some ppl are not that invested in their bikes. either they are frugal or they accept the fact that their bike WILL be stolen. so they don't get too attached, buy cheap mountain bikes and cheap locks, lock up the quickest way possible which is sometimes haphazard. don't know why this makes sense to them, because even if i spent like $50 on that stuff i'd still be mad if it got stolen.
I used a Masterlock U lock and a cable on my antique steelie 10 speed, then I bought a shiny Trek hybrid with quick release wheels and, yuck, I couldn't get the MasterU lock around the thick frame. So I bought a wider and longer U lock (X2) on Amazon, and it (barely) slips around a sign post or bike rack, the front wheel and the frame. The old U lock now slips around the rear wheel and frame, and the old cable slips through the (removable) seat and around the frame. It's a 5 minute deal, but the bike's still mine! ALSO>>>all those bus sign / no parking posts we lock up to are secured with one nut and bolt at the base, That nut can be removed in about 10 seconds and your bike ends up in a van in another 5 seconds, then they can cut the locks later at the Bad Guy Hide-out. Never lock to these posts! And some posts already have the bolt removed, so all you need to do is lift the signpost up and toss it on the ground. Sign posts - BAD
My front wheel is quick release so I use the U-lock to get the front wheel and the frame and usually the bike rack if it can reach, then I use the cable to get the back wheel which is not a quick release. Most of the time I can either get the cable or the U-lock around something planted in the ground as well.
If not I only lock the frame and the front wheel and use the cable to anchor it to something.
This should be avoided at all costs. A 12" pair of bolt cutters will liberate your (u-lock-hobbled) bike in less than 15 seconds. Better than "no lock" but only barely.
Gold Coast Fixed said:
[snip]
If not I only lock the frame and the front wheel and use the cable to anchor it to something.
Thanks for the advice, I'll keep that in mind next time I think about locking it that way.
Kevin C said:
This should be avoided at all costs. A 12" pair of bolt cutters will liberate your (u-lock-hobbled) bike in less than 15 seconds. Better than "no lock" but only barely.
Gold Coast Fixed said:[snip]
If not I only lock the frame and the front wheel and use the cable to anchor it to something.
I am not defending the ABUS lock, but I've heard a couple of things about it:
1. The most expensive version is nowhere near an equally (or lesser priced) U lock, but it is more secure than a cable lock.
2. A bike shop that I frequent started selling this most expensive ABUS model because customers complained that they didn't like carrying a "heavy" lock, but would then get their bikes stolen because they were using nothing. They actually won't recommend that lock until a person has said they wont carry a U lock.
My comment is more for the folks who want to improve the security of their bike. Recently I had my bike stripped of everything that wasn't locked up. (I use a Kryptonite U-lock with a Kryptonite cable to lock up my frame and both tires.) The shop where I got my replacement parts, recommended using wood glue (more secure than Elmers, easier to remove than crazy glue) to secure components that I don't adjust regularly. If you want to adjust/replace the component, then all you have to do is apply a little heat (blow dryer) and remove the glue with a safety pin. Replacing components can be just as costly as replacing a bike, so every little deterrent really makes a difference.
203 members
1 member
270 members
1 member
261 members