"Sheldon Brown" locking technique--personal experiences

Hello,

I've read a lot of opinions about the Sheldon Brown lock strategy (http://sheldonbrown.com/lock-strategy.html). I understand that it can be defeated by cutting through the wheel, and that this is not as difficult to do as Sheldon claimed in that article.

However, I'm really interested to hear whether this actually happens much in Chicago (cutting the wheel), whether people still use this method, and whether they've had any problems with it.

I have an Abus Futura Mini that is too small to lock through both the frame and wheels (they have deep V rims which make them a little too wide (but maybe these are also a little harder to cut through?)). I really love the light weight and size of this lock and I would like to find a way to make it work rather than replacing it with something bigger and heavier. It is the perfect size for the Sheldon Brown method. Alternatively, of course, I could lock it through only the frame (but not the wheel). I'm wondering which is the better course of action.

Potentially-relevant details: I never leave the bike outside overnight. Usually when I'm locking it it's because I'm shopping or at a bar or restaurant, so it's there for a few hours maximum. The bike is a new (but low-end) single-speed hybrid/commuter/utility type bike. Wheels are bolt-on, not quick-release.

Thank you in advance!

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What Jason says sums up bike security. It's all about deterrent. The bigger hassle you make it for them to steal your bike, the better. Sheldon Brown's technique is effective, but not theft-proof. Nothing is. As Peter above mentioned, "Locks are good security but can only slow down the theft, not prevent it." That's the goal, here.

I suggest stop arguing about cutting time for a lock vs. rim, steel vs. aluminum. Whether it's "a pro under ideal conditions" or not. There's no such thing as an ideal condition for a thief. 

If a thief knows anything about the bike he (or she) is targeting, he/she will cut the lock, not a rim. A rim certainly would be easier to cut, but in the long run, wouldn't be worth it because the (rear) wheel is the second most expensive component on a bike, much more than a U-lock. Oh, the thief will just get a new rim? Yeah, taking his rattling, missing-metal-chunk mess into a shop to get the cassette/FW removed? Yeah right. Oh, he already has a rim? Still gotta buy a new tire, tube, the FR-5 Park Tool to get the cassette off, plus the chain whip to get it back on.

The economics don't make sense. The amount of effort, work and anxiety of being seen is what keeps a thief from stealing your bike. Think about it. For a thief, the opportunity cost of cutting the rear rim (plus tire, tube, cost new rim/tools/doing a favor for a fellow thief or buddy that has those) is the money he would've made if he just cut the lock and sold the bike as is. The thief would be better off stealing an angle grinder and blowing through the mild steel U-lock, with bike intact.

As Sheldon Brown claims, rim cutting does not happen in the real world. And he is right. So don't worry about it. If it's ever happened to you, A) Sorry for your loss, that sucks, and B) Your thief is an idiot/bad economist.



Jason said:

At the end of the day, if someone really wants your stuff they will get it one way or the other. 

A chainbreaker is pocket-size and makes quick work.

I think the point is that for a determined bike thief who knows what they want, there ain't nothin' you can do.

Handlebars have a decent resale value, and all you'd really need is an allen wrench and some cablecutters for the brake cables. Who locks up their handlebars? It's all fair game to a thief. The idea is to determine what you can protect and what degree of protection is reasonable for you install.

peter moormann said:

Dont you need to get the chain off first...

Thats a lot of work.

Jason said:

ill still use the Sheldon Brown technique. 

At the end of the day, if someone really wants your stuff they will get it one way or the other. 

Someone stole my girlfriends derailleur a few years ago...waddya gonna do?

I actually think the poster has a good question. Thieves, like all of us, make decisions on the margins.  

As some of you read (per my recent post), several thieves were recently caught having just removed the front tires from  my bike (and somebody else's). I would not have thought a bunch of kids would bike around with an Allen wrench but they did.  They did not have an angle cutter with them nor a hacksaw to cut through a tire. Obviously it is hard to explain to the police why  you are biking around Chicago with these tools (they were not charged with stealing my tire as the police said it couldn't be proven they removed it).

I was interested in the post because I too use Sheldon's method to lock my bike. For me the rear tire is more critical as I have internal gears and it'is worth about $250 new.

Given the value of that rear tire, and what I read here, I am now taking the extra 15 seconds it requires to thread my ulock through the rear stay so cutting the tire wont' be sufficient.  I won't do that if I'm only stopping somewhere for fifteen minutes or I'm in a place I don't think the serious thieves will be around.

My advice to the poster is since you like the lock, mainly lock the bike at night, and don't have a really expensive bike,  I would stay with the Sheldon method.  I think it's unlikely - but not impossible - that your bike gets taken.  

For me, I have a rack so carrying a larger lock is no problem and if my bike get's stolen - as it recently was - it takes me a month to get a new one, tires, etc. Better to use a large u lock and solidly lock the frame.  With a less expensive bike I would have no trouble relying on Sheldon's method if carrying a large lock was a hassle.

I locked using the Sheldon Brown method this morning. I will let you know if my bike gets stolen.

Please do. I will place the odds at .3452% that your bike ever gets stolen assuming you park at night, for a few hours, don't have a high value bike, and use the Sheldon method with a U lock.  

I was thinking of your situation this am. FWIW, I have never in three years of biking/commuting every day seen a sawed off bike wheel. While some bike thieves do use cars/vans, the majority just bike away with your bike.  Having a wheelless bike would make that difficult.

That being said, I believe you understand that better security would be threading a u lock through the chainstay. But Sheldon was the man and I do trust him (that's why I used his method until a few days ago when I realized I could threat the chain stay without much additional effort).

I only lock up during the daytime in a heavily-trafficked area in the Loop – luckily, my apartment has a bike room. I'll go try to see if I can thread the lock through the chainstays. I've got a New York Fahgettaboudit Mini lock and I was left wondering this morning if a thief could pop the real wheel off and fit the lock in-between the chainstays, since it's a fairly small lock.

The advantage of that lock you have, I have read, is that it is hard for thieves to get leverage with a break bar.

I would not assume that you are entirely safe in the loop. My bike got stolen in Feb in front of the merchandise mart on what I think was the coldest day of the year. For reasons I won't bore you with I used a cable lock that day (only day of the year!)..what a mistake.  

That being said, I think it's highly unlikely that anybody will saw your wheel off in the loop.  I don't care what that other guy said that's a messy operation and obviously ruins the wheel.  Poor risk reward ratio and your basic wheel grabbing street guy isn't exactly walking around with a hacksaw.

Lock up in your bike room too. Two friends have had their bikes stolen from these in the past year.

I always lock up my bike in the bike room because it's incredibly easy for a thief to tailgate someone into the room without a key. 50 unlocked bikes vs. my locked bike pretty much guarantees they won't bother with my bike.

My concern with the mini-lock is that it might be able to be maneuvered though the chainstays if the real wheel is removed. (Although Sheldon does mention using a mini-lock in his article). Is this true?

You would have to maneuver either the wheel or the object you lock to thru the rear triangle.

The wheel is usually impossible, unless you have a very small wheel compared to the frame size.

The bike rack, as long as it is fixed to the wall of floor, is impossible as well to move thru the rear triangle.

Adam Herstein (5.5 mi) said:

I always lock up my bike in the bike room because it's incredibly easy for a thief to tailgate someone into the room without a key. 50 unlocked bikes vs. my locked bike pretty much guarantees they won't bother with my bike.

My concern with the mini-lock is that it might be able to be maneuvered though the chainstays if the real wheel is removed. (Although Sheldon does mention using a mini-lock in his article). Is this true?

glad you answered this..i always had the same question.

Duppie 13.5185km said:

You would have to maneuver either the wheel or the object you lock to thru the rear triangle.

The wheel is usually impossible, unless you have a very small wheel compared to the frame size.

The bike rack, as long as it is fixed to the wall of floor, is impossible as well to move thru the rear triangle.

Adam Herstein (5.5 mi) said:

I always lock up my bike in the bike room because it's incredibly easy for a thief to tailgate someone into the room without a key. 50 unlocked bikes vs. my locked bike pretty much guarantees they won't bother with my bike.

My concern with the mini-lock is that it might be able to be maneuvered though the chainstays if the real wheel is removed. (Although Sheldon does mention using a mini-lock in his article). Is this true?

Forgot exactly what they did.  But it was early afternoon in a high traffic area. 



peter moormann said:

Dont you need to get the chain off first...

Thats a lot of work.

fyi if you get a rear bike rack it's easy to put the standard kryptonite on it and a cable for the front wheel. Those brackets never work well..have tried for years. Of course the rack and lock probably add 8-10 lbs but I find the rack extremely useful for carrying things.  

Adam Herstein (5.5 mi) said:

I always lock up my bike in the bike room because it's incredibly easy for a thief to tailgate someone into the room without a key. 50 unlocked bikes vs. my locked bike pretty much guarantees they won't bother with my bike.

My concern with the mini-lock is that it might be able to be maneuvered though the chainstays if the real wheel is removed. (Although Sheldon does mention using a mini-lock in his article). Is this true?

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