Hand Built Wheels by Well Spoked

I am offering wheel building services. Bring any hub and wheel combos (as long as the number of spokes holes is the same) then tell me what type of spokes you want. I determine the spoke length and build the wheels. Builds offered are as follows:

Basic build: the spoke threads are preped, the nipples seats are preped with antiseeze. Then the wheels are built and trued to within +/- .25mm of lateral and radial true (for used rims tolerances may be greater). Spokes are also pre seated and stressed. All spokes are tensioned within +\- 15% of the average for the wheel.

Premium build: same as the basic build but wheels are trued to within +/- .08mm of lateral and radial true and all spokes are tensioned to within +\- 10% of the average (again with used rims tolerances are greater). This tight tollerance of spoke tension combined with the pre seating of spokes mass the wheels extremely strong and maximizes the time in between wheel trues

I also offer upgades to grade 25 stainless bearings with Phil Wood grease for loose ball hubs.

Prices are as follows

Basic built wheel: $50 plus the cost of spokes
Basic built wheelset: $90 plus the cost of spokes
Premium built wheel: $100 plus the cost of spokes
Premium built wheelset: $175 plus the cost of spokes
Loose ball hub upgrade: $30
Loose ball hubset upgrade: $50

Please feel free to send me an email with any questions at WellSpokedWheels@gmail.com

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Replies to This Discussion

Permalink Reply by Zoetrope on October 15, 2012 at 8:53am

Did you even read the first page?  

Wait, Dug, is that you?  


John said:

Taking cheap shots at a mechanic at reputable bike shop in your own FS thread on The Chainlink seems to me a bad way to get clients. Just sayin'.

Permalink Reply by Doug Haynes on October 15, 2012 at 8:55am

Nope, I always post under the same name and never change it unlike some people here....

Zoetrope said:

Did you even read the first page?  

Wait, Dug, is that you?  


John said:

Taking cheap shots at a mechanic at reputable bike shop in your own FS thread on The Chainlink seems to me a bad way to get clients. Just sayin'.

Permalink Reply by Patrick Doherty on October 15, 2012 at 8:58am
If you put a bright light under the truing stand it forces your iris to close allowing you to focus better (just like raising the f-stop on a camera) using that method it is easy to get within .25mm of true or better. Thats a little trade trick you can keep it.
Permalink Reply by John on October 15, 2012 at 1:30pm

Hi, I'm John!

Permalink Reply by Far'arned Retrogrumpalunkus #63 on October 15, 2012 at 1:33pm

Through the dust and the smoke of this man made hell,
walked a giant of a man that Clainlinkers knew well.

John said:

Hi, I'm John!

Permalink Reply by John on October 15, 2012 at 1:37pm

Permalink Reply by Lanterne Rouge on October 15, 2012 at 2:17pm

I'm trying to decide which thread devolved into more of a clusterf*ck - this one or that 'sweet hand built fixxay' one.

Permalink Reply by ilter on October 15, 2012 at 2:20pm

Hi Jim, I don`t see a cluster here, yet :))

Jim S said:

I'm trying to decide which thread devolved into more of a clusterf*ck - this one or that 'sweet hand built fixxay' one.

Permalink Reply by Lanterne Rouge on October 15, 2012 at 2:26pm

ha! In due time, friend...in due time.

ilter said:

Hi Jim, I don`t see a cluster here, yet :))

Jim S said:

I'm trying to decide which thread devolved into more of a clusterf*ck - this one or that 'sweet hand built fixxay' one.

Permalink Reply by Far'arned Retrogrumpalunkus #63 on October 15, 2012 at 2:51pm

It's a new moon today -not full.   

Permalink Reply by Patrick Doherty on October 15, 2012 at 2:57pm
I'm Patrick by the way but you guys probably could have guessed that I have given up on Internet anonymity.
Permalink Reply by mike w. on October 15, 2012 at 3:20pm

i think the finer points of this discussion is what constitutes "true." When i was wrenching, we considered two standards: Commercially true and Racing true.

Most riders got along fine with Commercially true: the wheel passes the brake pads without too noticable side wobble or hops. Most of the rims in that era (early 70's) weren't that precisely made and many had horrendous seam welds or pin joints.

Racing true was the precise build: High quality rims (99% were tubulars, the lightweight 700c clinchers weren't really widely available yet,) High-end hubs (Campag NR was the gold standard,) and Stella or Robrigel DB spokes. They were strictly for racing.

Almost no one had let alone used a tension meter. Our builder was an artisan. i had a few pairs of her wheels. Wish i still had 'em. i'm pretty sure they're still running true.

 

The rims etc, available now are so much better, and build up and  stay much truer from the get-go, but i don't really think most riders would recognise the difference between commercially and racing true. This arguement approaches theological territory...

i'm sure the major players in  this discussion build fine wheels. i'd be happy to give either my business if i needed to, but i've been content to just build my own for all these years. Sure, they may not be ultra-precise builds, but they've held up pretty well if i do say so myself.

 

Peace. Out.

 

 

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