I have been commuting in cool through Hot weather (essentially April to Late November) on a series of 1970's vintage Road Bikes (when they break in an accident, I replace them rather than repair them).   I currently use an early Trek with a Reynolds Steel Frame.  It does not have the geometry for anything larger than the current 27 by 1 and 1/4 inch tires.   Its pretty clear that I need to get another Bicycle for Ice and Snow.    Its hard to teach an old dog new tricks, and I really like the older style large frame size (the Trek's a big frame) and I don't want to go single speed.  I purchased a Trek "city" bicycle about 10 years ago and I shortly thereafter got rid of it.   It didn't feel like I could ride it efficiently and I hated the "index" shifters.   Its a short commuter run (about 12 miles in each direction) so I don't need to go over the top for a "super bicycle".  What should I be looking for.  

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ditch the 27" wheels. convert to 700c for better tire selection, wider clearance for full fenders and fat tires. you may or may not need to switch out your brakes for ones with a longer reach - depends on what kinda brakes are on your old trek. braking on modern aluminum rims is almost always better than the braking on old steel rims like you have...plus you'll probably save some rotational weight.

and while you're out switching the wheels, you really should consider a dynamo-hub front wheel. winter = darkness and dynamo lighting is so much better than stupid battery lights. a Shimano hub + a B&M IQ Cyo in the front + a Topline (or Seculite+) in the back will serve you quite well.

i don't know... my "stupid battery light" is 900 lumens and cost 1/3rd of a dyno setup.

^Magicshine

Warning - Do not use Magic Shine headlight on bright where they may reflect on cars or house windows.  It will blind you and you might crash before you can see again.

Also, get Salmon red kool stop brake pads for rim brakes.  Works a little bit better dry.  Fades much less in wet weather.  Self cleaning, so dirt does not imbed in the brake pad and wear away your rims.

...and you still have to recharge it regularly, remove it from your bike while locking up, and it's blinding to oncoming traffic/cyclists/pedestrians. not comparable to a decent, set-and-forget dynamo setup. entirely different things; a decent commuter lighting system isnt just about lumens. no one ever ditches a dynamo setup to go back to batteries, but people leave battery-lights in favor of the dynamo regularly. if one were to build up a commuter/everyday wheel, including a dynamo hub is a no-brainer, I think.


Kelvin Mulcky said:

i don't know... my "stupid battery light" is 900 lumens and cost 1/3rd of a dyno setup.

^Magicshine

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