+1 on not using WD-40 not only does it attract every piece of grime it does a shitty job of lubricating.
phil's tenacious oil is like 7 bucks a bottle, and lasts for a crazy long time, lubing a couple times a week.
Kevin C said:
And don't lube your chain with WD-40. It will attract every piece of grime within a 3-zip code radius. Treat yourself to a bottle of bicycle-specific chain lube. I use Pedro's. They're all about the same.
Nick Butterfield said:get a chain tool, remove your chain, drop it into a soda bottle with degreaser and shake liberally.
S.Presley said:Salt...grime...sand from dipping off the LFP a couple days ago at North ave. beach. The old VooDoo was looking worse for wear. It didn't help that I sprayed WD-40 all over the drive train just before Mass...acting like a magnet for everything thrown up from the streets.
[snip]
Thanks for he tips...I'm going to get a new chain and start fresh with the right lube.
Nick Butterfield said:
phil's tenacious oil is like 7 bucks a bottle, and lasts for a crazy long time, lubing a couple times a week.
Kevin C said:And don't lube your chain with WD-40. It will attract every piece of grime within a 3-zip code radius. Treat yourself to a bottle of bicycle-specific chain lube. I use Pedro's. They're all about the same.
Nick Butterfield said:get a chain tool, remove your chain, drop it into a soda bottle with degreaser and shake liberally.
S.Presley said:Salt...grime...sand from dipping off the LFP a couple days ago at North ave. beach. The old VooDoo was looking worse for wear. It didn't help that I sprayed WD-40 all over the drive train just before Mass...acting like a magnet for everything thrown up from the streets.
[snip]
Check out Chain-L lube. It lasts for 1000-2000 miles between applications which more than makes up for the slightly involved application. Also most of the lube ends up inside your chain instead of outside of it so your chain stays a lot cleaner with it. Much better than stuff like ProLink or Pedros.
S.Presley said:
Thanks for he tips...I'm going to get a new chain and start fresh with the right lube.
Nick Butterfield said:phil's tenacious oil is like 7 bucks a bottle, and lasts for a crazy long time, lubing a couple times a week.
Kevin C said:And don't lube your chain with WD-40. It will attract every piece of grime within a 3-zip code radius. Treat yourself to a bottle of bicycle-specific chain lube. I use Pedro's. They're all about the same.
Nick Butterfield said:get a chain tool, remove your chain, drop it into a soda bottle with degreaser and shake liberally.
S.Presley said:Salt...grime...sand from dipping off the LFP a couple days ago at North ave. beach. The old VooDoo was looking worse for wear. It didn't help that I sprayed WD-40 all over the drive train just before Mass...acting like a magnet for everything thrown up from the streets.
[snip]
wd-40 will also make your chain rust faster. My lube of choice is 3 in 1 oil. Might not be what the pros use but I have a free supply of it.
Another county heard from:
Parks Chain Oil CL-1. Supposedly keeps lubricating in low temp situations. Under $4.00 on the web, under $9.00 locally.
I'm not a fan of Chain-L; it smells pretty much like hypoid-gear oil and I, personally, am not a fan of super thing lubricants because I think they pick up and hold more filth than thinner, or wax type, lubes. 3 in 1 oil is better than wd-40 or other very thin lubes but not the ideal in my opinion. WD-40 is not a lubricant and just about the worst thing you can spray on your bike. Of course in the end any lube is better than no lube; rubbing your chain down with bacon fat is better than nothing...
I'm not picky about the lube I use, just that it is thinner or wax type. I prefer the waxy lubes in the winter because they wash out less.
Regardless of what you oil chains with the key to having the lubricant be effective is in how you oil your chain. The first step any, and every, time that you oil your chain is to take a rag with either solvent or a bit of lube on it and wipe your chain down well. Get off as much of the dirt and crud as you can because when you lube the chain covered in filth the oil will carry some of that filth into the rollers of the chain. Plus it helps your chain to not become covered in a nasty black grease; the black grease you see on truly filthy chains is just oil with tons and tons of road grit on which is actually doing more harm to the chain than good. After the chain is cleaned up apply lube to it targeting the rollers themselves as much as possible. After you have applied the lube let it set for several minutes so it can wick down into the rollers and then wipe off as much of the excess as possible; less oil on the outside is less oil to pick up dirt.
S said:
Check out Chain-L lube. It lasts for 1000-2000 miles between applications which more than makes up for the slightly involved application. Also most of the lube ends up inside your chain instead of outside of it so your chain stays a lot cleaner with it. Much better than stuff like ProLink or Pedros.
S.Presley said:Thanks for he tips...I'm going to get a new chain and start fresh with the right lube.
Nick Butterfield said:phil's tenacious oil is like 7 bucks a bottle, and lasts for a crazy long time, lubing a couple times a week.
Kevin C said:And don't lube your chain with WD-40. It will attract every piece of grime within a 3-zip code radius. Treat yourself to a bottle of bicycle-specific chain lube. I use Pedro's. They're all about the same.
Nick Butterfield said:get a chain tool, remove your chain, drop it into a soda bottle with degreaser and shake liberally.
S.Presley said:Salt...grime...sand from dipping off the LFP a couple days ago at North ave. beach. The old VooDoo was looking worse for wear. It didn't help that I sprayed WD-40 all over the drive train just before Mass...acting like a magnet for everything thrown up from the streets.
[snip]
Does Chain-L work in low temperatures? I use ProLink because it does, even at 0 degrees. Finish Line products thicken when it drops below 30 degrees. With a recument - 3 lengths of chain on it - chain lubing is critical.
S said:
Check out Chain-L lube. It lasts for 1000-2000 miles between applications which more than makes up for the slightly involved application. Also most of the lube ends up inside your chain instead of outside of it so your chain stays a lot cleaner with it. Much better than stuff like ProLink or Pedros.
S.Presley said:Thanks for he tips...I'm going to get a new chain and start fresh with the right lube.
Nick Butterfield said:phil's tenacious oil is like 7 bucks a bottle, and lasts for a crazy long time, lubing a couple times a week.
Kevin C said:And don't lube your chain with WD-40. It will attract every piece of grime within a 3-zip code radius. Treat yourself to a bottle of bicycle-specific chain lube. I use Pedro's. They're all about the same.
Nick Butterfield said:get a chain tool, remove your chain, drop it into a soda bottle with degreaser and shake liberally.
S.Presley said:Salt...grime...sand from dipping off the LFP a couple days ago at North ave. beach. The old VooDoo was looking worse for wear. It didn't help that I sprayed WD-40 all over the drive train just before Mass...acting like a magnet for everything thrown up from the streets.
[snip]
Thanks for the pro perspective, educational tip.
notoriousDUG said:
Regardless of what you oil chains with the key to having the lubricant be effective is in how you oil your chain. The first step any, and every, time that you oil your chain is to take a rag with either solvent or a bit of lube on it and wipe your chain down well. Get off as much of the dirt and crud as you can because when you lube the chain covered in filth the oil will carry some of that filth into the rollers of the chain. Plus it helps your chain to not become covered in a nasty black grease; the black grease you see on truly filthy chains is just oil with tons and tons of road grit on which is actually doing more harm to the chain than good. After the chain is cleaned up apply lube to it targeting the rollers themselves as much as possible. After you have applied the lube let it set for several minutes so it can wick down into the rollers and then wipe off as much of the excess as possible; less oil on the outside is less oil to pick up dirt.
Does degreaser fall into the category of "solvent"? I've been very happy with the locally produced (I think?) El Duke. http://eldukedegreaser.com/
notoriousDUG said:
...
Regardless of what you oil chains with the key to having the lubricant be effective is in how you oil your chain. The first step any, and every, time that you oil your chain is to take a rag with either solvent or a bit of lube on it and wipe your chain down well
....
I would say yes; just anything to get the yuck off the chain. Personally I try to avoid cleaning a chian beyond the outside unless it is REALLY filthy.
El Duke was locally made but it, sadly, is no longer in production. If you have some guard it like gold.
Tony Adams said:
Does degreaser fall into the category of "solvent"? I've been very happy with the locally produced (I think?) El Duke. http://eldukedegreaser.com/
notoriousDUG said:...
Regardless of what you oil chains with the key to having the lubricant be effective is in how you oil your chain. The first step any, and every, time that you oil your chain is to take a rag with either solvent or a bit of lube on it and wipe your chain down well
....
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