Favorite method for removing stuck seatpost?
Been working on this one for a while. It's pretty much fused.
When at it with a pipe wrench the other night, but no go.
Favorite trick? Thanks.
(FWIW the frame is exactly like this one:)
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Replies to This Discussion
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Permalink Reply by mark stetson on
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most of what I'd do is here:
http://www.sheldonbrown.com/stuck-seatposts.html
I'd try some form of the temperature differential process first.
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one thing i've done before on super stuck posts, is to chop the post off above the collar (leave some tubing so you have something to grab onto with pliers when it's free), then take a long hacksaw blade (make sure it's a metal cutting blade), stick it down in the tube, and hand-saw the tubing of the seatpost longways. it takes forever but it works. if you have some cutting oil it will help a little.
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Permalink Reply by Kevin Mulcky on
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I've never encountered this problem personally, but I'd use a periodic soaking with PB Blaster and lots and lots of patience.
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Permalink Reply by rb on
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I have used the large screwdriver in the seatpost lugs.
For a really stuck post, I used the screwdriver and a pipe wrench. That got the post out-- it was trashed.
+1 on greasing posts, bolts, etc. I have found Phil Wood to be worth the price.
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ha, well, i don't know what sheldon says. it does take a little time, and you have to be careful not to also score the inside of the seattube, but it works. kind of a last resort thing, i guess, but i've had to do it twice as a mechanic.
h' said:Thanks. For what it's worth the Sheldon brown says to chop the post off above the collar (leave some tubing so you have something to grab onto with pliers when it's free), then take a long hacksaw blade (make sure it's a metal cutting blade), stick it down in the tube, and hand-saw the tubing of the seatpost longways . . . oh, wait :-)
Question-- we're talking about a bare hacksaw blade, right? Wouldn't that take about a year to saw through?
Colin DL said:one thing i've done before on super stuck posts, is to chop the post off above the collar (leave some tubing so you have something to grab onto with pliers when it's free), then take a long hacksaw blade (make sure it's a metal cutting blade), stick it down in the tube, and hand-saw the tubing of the seatpost longways. it takes forever but it works. if you have some cutting oil it will help a little.
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also, the seatpost in the vise method works better if you have a shitty saddle you can clamp in there so the post is less likely to spin. or even a piece of the largest diameter steel rod that will fit in the seatpost clamp. once you get it out, use on of those tube boring tools with the metal balls on the ends of steel wire, grease that mf'er up before you go sticking another post in it.
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I suggest letting it soak throughout a weekend, or longer. Really worry it. You can plug up the seattube and invert the bike, or use a rag soaked in PB to keep the PB in contact.
Every so often give the post a firm wallop with a mallet to help the penetrating oil...penetrate.
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Permalink Reply by UV Metal Arts - Powder Coating on
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I have removed many a stuck seat post in my day (stuck means you can't take it out using the vise method), In-fact, I will buy good frames with stuck seat posts in them, as long as the seat post is not in there more then 10”. If you have gone through http://www.sheldonbrown.com/stuck-seatposts.html and are at the cutting out stage here is some advice. I use a reciprocating saw (AKA sawzall) but this advise applies to the hack saw method too. Now you may say "you're going to saw right through your seat tube with that thing", but this is how it done correctly. Most seat post are aluminum and this advice is for AL seat post and steel frame only.
- Al requires a different cutting tooth profile than steel, so hack saw or reciprocating saw blade, pick the coarsest tooth blade that you can find, that's also long enough for the job. It will go a lot quicker this way and coarse teeth will not cut through your steel frame as quickly as a fine-toothed blade.
- Cut the seat post off leaving an inch of post sticking out of the frame.
- Put aside 30-45 min of your time and set up the frame in the best ergonomic position for the cutting motion. And grab a beer and a flashlight.
- When cutting remember that both ends will be cut away sooner than the center so be careful not to cut into your frame at the bottom of the seat post.
- Cut along the seat tube clamp's gap on the seat tube so that you can cut an inch or so deeper below the seat tube opening. Resist the temptation to start another cut. This is a waste of time. Also resist the urge to pull and twist with vise grips. Keep looking into the seat post to see your progress.
- When you cut completely through there will be a slight pop/tic sound, then the seat post will slide out without too much resistance (No one believes the part about the pop until they here it for themselves).
Good Luck with it. If you don't want to bother with it, we will do it for $65.
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Yes, I don''t want to derail this thread I'll PM you.
Moc Artsy said:UV, any suggestions for frozen bottom bracket fixed cups?
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If you would like you can do it at my shop with my tools free of charge.
h' said:I stopped at the hardware store on my way home and bought a bottle of penetrating oil, a metal hacksaw blade (wish I'd read UV's post more thoroughly-- it's medium) and a larger (18") pipe wrench.
I guess I'll add a little oil and take a turn with the wrench every second or third time I pass the bike for the next week or two.
Would like to get studded tires on this bike and see if they're good for anything.
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