Replies to This Discussion

Permalink Reply by Kevin C Dormant on June 9, 2011 at 7:13am

1 yes

2 no

3 no

 

Certainly worth a try. You don't specify whether that one "kinked" spoke is broken or bent, but replacing it with a"non-kinked" spoke may do the trick.

 

• ▶ Reply

Permalink Reply by Kevin Mulcky on June 9, 2011 at 7:17am

If it's a steel rim wheel, I'd just replace it.

• ▶ Reply

Permalink Reply by Moc Artsy on June 9, 2011 at 7:22am

It should be fairly easy for you to replace the spoke. Remove the tire and tube, and then the rim-tape or rim-strip. Assuming the spoke nipple isn't stripped, you should be able to remove the nipple with the proper spoke wrench, then draw the spoke out of the hub. Be absolutely sure to count the number of complete rotations it took to remove the nipple from the spoke; you will need to tighten the nipple the same number of revolutions to bring it back up to proper tension. Rather than cannibalize another wheel for a replacement spoke, bring the damaged spoke and nipple to your LBS and get a new one in the same size (they may have to cut and thread one for you, but if not the cost of a spoke is generally still one dollar), and a new spoke nipple in the correct gauge. When you replace the spoke, you will have to follow the lacing pattern of your wheel. If you think you understand it just by looking at the other spoke groupings, go ahead and lace the new spoke in whatever under/over pattern it fits. If you fear you might get confused in this, take a picture of the damaged spoke's place in the lacing pattern before removing it. After lacing the spoke, thread the nipple and slowly bring it back to tension. It shouldn't be too difficult to true and round the wheel once you are back at tension. If your wheel had rim-tape, you will need to replace this also. If any of this sounds too complicated or too time-consuming, it should only cost between $20 and $25 to have your LBS replace a spoke for you.

• ▶ Reply

Permalink Reply by Duppie on June 9, 2011 at 7:22am

I think you can definitely try that. Trueing wheels is fun and not too difficult.

Do note that spoke come in all lengths. Just because you have "some old wheels lying around" doesn't mean the spokes are the right length.

 

You can also buy replacement spokes. Any bike shop should be able to sell you a replacement spoke. I've paid anywhere between $1 and $2 for an individual spoke.

• ▶ Reply

Permalink Reply by Doug Haynes on June 9, 2011 at 7:38am

Unless the wheel you have is the exact same hub, rim, spoke count and lacing pattern combo the spoke from the old wheel will NOT work.  Even then I would not recommend it; I feel that spokes and nipples are a one time use kind of thing and that reusing them leads to future issues holding spoke tension.

 

I am not really sure how you can true only part of a wheel... If you have a broken, or messed up spoke, to the point it is causing the wheel to be out of true chances are you have issues with spoke tension in other parts of the wheel and it should not only be trued but have the spoke tension checked.

 

There is a lot more to getting the wheel true and back into good shape then just counting the turns on the spoke nipple; age, use, and difference in different spoke manufactures, and differences in exact length are going to make it a little more complex then that.  Properly replacing a spoke so that you end up with a properly trued and tensioned wheel is not that hard but it does require the use of some specific tools and a certain amount of knowledge.  Unless you have a truing stand and a spoke tension gauge I would suggest you either have a shop replace the spoke for you (25-35 dollars labor plus 2-3 dollars for the spoke and nipple) or go to one of the many 'open shops' at place like West Town Bikes, make a donation, and with their help replace the spoke using the proper tools; every one I know of would be more than happy to help you.

• ▶ Reply

Permalink Reply by Melanie K on June 9, 2011 at 8:21am

Thanks for all the advice on this- I had no idea it would be that involved. I have a truing stand and tons of bicycle specific tools, and do most of my own repairs via reading articles and books, and I probably could do this myself if I read up on it or consulted someone like going to West Town Bikes or somewhere. As far as having a bike shop fix it- for the price, I could probably find a wheel without bent spokes from someone on Craigslist for the same price that a shop would charge to fix it for me- but then I would have to true it, too.

The wheel is an alloy wheel, not all steel, and original to the bike-Weinmann Belgium 27 1/4 - not that they are all that special, but they have served me pretty well and have worked well for the pockmarked streets of Chicago. When I checked all the other spokes this is the only one that is bent- here is a picture of it I took at lunch on my phone- it is the top spoke:

 

As is, the bike does ride pretty well, the tire isn't rubbing the brake, and like I said, it is weird as I watch the tire rolling straight, then for a brief second, it kinks to one side, then goes straight again. I just worry that if I don't fix that spoke that it will just get more and more out of true, which I think DUG is suggesting. 

Thank you for all the advice, not sure what exactly I am going to do, but at least I have an idea of what I should be doing. 

• ▶ Reply

Permalink Reply by Kevin Mulcky on June 9, 2011 at 8:31am

Is it the tire or rim that is out of true?

• ▶ Reply

Permalink Reply by Melanie K on June 9, 2011 at 8:38am

I am pretty certain it is the rim- I was just relating that when I am riding, I look down and watch the wheel/tire- it rolls straight, then dodges sideways for a split second, then straight again and I think it is caused by that one bent spoke.  Since I just noticed it, I haven't really had a chance to put it on a stand and take a good look at it.

Kelvin Mulcky said:

Is it the tire or rim that is out of true?

• ▶ Reply

Permalink Reply by Doug Haynes on June 9, 2011 at 9:53am

Check the seating of the bead on the tire all around, you may have a section not properly seated making it look like the wheel is jumping around.  Inspect the sidewall of the tire and use any stripes on the side of it or the lettering as a guide and make sure there is no area where there is less, or more, sidewall than in other areas.  The most common issue is for the bead to be to far into the rim.

 

If you have a truing stand take the wheel off and put it in the stand to find where the lateral deviation in the rim is or, lacking a stand, spin the wheel on the bike and watch the rim pass the brake, squeezing the brake to bring it closer to see the deviation if needed, to pinpoint the problem area; this should tell you if the problem is at the spoke in question.

 

 

• ▶ Reply

Permalink Reply by Dave Jacque on June 9, 2011 at 10:17am

Possible you hit a curb or a bump and the rim is slightly flared out in one spot (and the spoke got kinked in the process)?

• ▶ Reply