Replies to This Discussion

Permalink Reply by Alan Matejka on October 2, 2009 at 7:54am

http://sheldonbrown.com/english-3.html#sturmey check this Ryan

• ▶ Reply

Permalink Reply by Bailey Gene Newbrey on October 2, 2009 at 8:00am

http://www.sturmey-archerheritage.com/history.php

Exploded diagrams of damn near all of 'em dating back to 1902.

Also, the first time I re-built one the advice given to me was that it goes together like a puzzle, which I found to be quite true. They're not too complex in design. Once you see how it fits everything makes sense. I'd be glad to give advice on any specific questions you may have.

• ▶ Reply

Permalink Reply by jen on October 2, 2009 at 9:16am

the first one i took apart I used "Glenn's complete bicycle manual" This book totally kicks ass. tons of step by step pics an diagrams. you can usually find it at used book stores for a couple bucks

• ▶ Reply

Permalink Reply by Barry on October 2, 2009 at 10:08am

good call on the Glenn's manual jen

Ryan two slightly tricky moves that require some finesse are:

• prying off the retaining clip that holds the sprocket on (this is one of the first things you will do and it's easy)
• removing the left hand ball cup with a hammer and punch. Don't be shy about whackn that sucka good

extra credit: install a longer axle and build a 700c wheel for use on a road frame.

also make sure to rock some authentic 70s style tube socks like the guy on the glenn's manual

• ▶ Reply

Permalink Reply by Ryan L on October 2, 2009 at 2:23pm

Barry said:

also make sure to rock some authentic 70s style tube socks like the guy on the glenn's manual

LOL

Cool thanks for the reference to the Glenn's Manual. Alex from West Town mentioned that book to me yesterday but I did to many drugs in College and sometimes forget stuff :)
On a side note, I started to overhaul my 68" Racer and noticed something odd. The front hub does not have a locking bolt system like every other hub I am used to. I was like "where do I use a cone wrench?" My wife's 71' Breeze has the proper so I wonder what year they started using it. Has to be between 69'-71'. It's very odd because it does not allow for a proper adjustment that won't tighten or loosen while riding. Very strange.

• ▶ Reply

Permalink Reply by Alan Matejka on October 2, 2009 at 5:20pm

In the old days there were no locknuts on the cones. The fork will hold them tight. You just have to have good and well lubed threads on your front axel, so the initial cone adjustment, isn't changed by tightening the wheel to the fork. Sometimes the threads are knurled where the cones are, so the adjustment stays. (cheap bikes) I'll have to check out the Glens manual. It must be a good one. I'm Learning Some.

Ryan L said:

Barry said:

also make sure to rock some authentic 70s style tube socks like the guy on the glenn's manual

LOL

Cool thanks for the reference to the Glenn's Manual. Alex from West Town mentioned that book to me yesterday but I did to many drugs in College and sometimes forget stuff :)
On a side note, I started to overhaul my 68" Racer and noticed something odd. The front hub does not have a locking bolt system like every other hub I am used to. I was like "where do I use a cone wrench?" My wife's 71' Breeze has the proper so I wonder what year they started using it. Has to be between 69'-71'. It's very odd because it does not allow for a proper adjustment that won't tighten or loosen while riding. Very strange.

• ▶ Reply

Permalink Reply by Ryan L on October 3, 2009 at 5:22am

Thanks all for the advice. Now I need to track down a Glenn's Manual and some tube socks and get to work. I can fix me up a bicycle but unfortunately I'm not so talented with my own grammar, punctuation and spelling. Saying 68" instead of '68 is something that makes my mother cry in her sleep.

Speaking of '68, it dawned on me yesterday as I was working on the Racer that the bike was built in March of '68 in Chicago which just happened to be the year of the violent Democratic National Convention. Makes me wonder if this bike saw any craziness on the streets? Just another reason I love these old Schwinns :)

• ▶ Reply

Permalink Reply by Mike Bullis 5.5-6.5 miles on October 3, 2009 at 7:36am

I don't have much experience with sixties Schwinns, but Raleigh front hubs had no locknuts on one side of the hub. There is a machined face on the non-locknut end of the axle that the cone is tightened against and all adjustment are made from the locknut end.

I got my copy of Glenns in the late 70s and there are grease stains on it older than my oldest kid.

I can take Sturmey hubs apart in my sleep. When I get the inkling, or someone asks really nice, I do make 2 speed fixed gears out of AW hubs. JC Higgins, Sears, Brampton, and SunTour hubs are Sturmey clones and are just as easy to work on. Fitchel & Sachs Torpedo 3 speeds are wonderful hubs but require special tools.

Shimano triple threes,' I usually aim towards the recycle bin. Not really a bad hub, but not as robust as the others and a PITA to work on.

Ryan L said:

Barry said:

also make sure to rock some authentic 70s style tube socks like the guy on the glenn's manual

LOL

Cool thanks for the reference to the Glenn's Manual. Alex from West Town mentioned that book to me yesterday but I did to many drugs in College and sometimes forget stuff :)
On a side note, I started to overhaul my 68" Racer and noticed something odd. The front hub does not have a locking bolt system like every other hub I am used to. I was like "where do I use a cone wrench?" My wife's 71' Breeze has the proper so I wonder what year they started using it. Has to be between 69'-71'. It's very odd because it does not allow for a proper adjustment that won't tighten or loosen while riding. Very strange.

• ▶ Reply