Comment

Comment by Far'arned Retrogrumpalunkus #63 on April 8, 2011 at 10:05am

That yellow Sports is yummy!  It makes me smile.

Comment by jessiejane on April 8, 2011 at 9:42am

I would like the middle guy (green) Should I contact you through Craigslist?

Comment by Alan Lloyd on April 8, 2011 at 9:32am

Thinning my herd ...

http://chicago.craigslist.org/nwc/bik/2313420472.html (bicycles)

http://chicago.craigslist.org/nwc/bik/2313452254.html (bicycles)

http://chicago.craigslist.org/nwc/bik/2313473704.html (bicycles)

 - some of you will recognise the YELLOW one, I'm sure!

Comment by SlyRed on April 8, 2011 at 9:19am

Open question about early seventies Raleigh Competitions:  Does anyone know if the top tube has the script style decal that says "Made in England" on the saddle end of the tube (on top)?

 

Most vintage Sports have the decal in the middle of the top tube.

Comment by Far'arned Retrogrumpalunkus #63 on April 1, 2011 at 10:11am

Seen over in the C & V area of BikeForums.com

 

Just had to share!

Comment by Far'arned Retrogrumpalunkus #63 on March 25, 2011 at 6:19am

I was unclear in my previous communication.

 

With the wood, don't use it as a hammer but only as buffer between the bolt head and a regular hammer if you don't have a rubber or nylon-headed mallet.  You don't want to go a-whacking with a 2x4 ;)

Comment by Far'arned Retrogrumpalunkus #63 on March 25, 2011 at 5:57am

Like it was said earlier.  Just loosen the bolt head at the top of the stem until it is about 1/2" up.  Take a big rubber mallet, or failing that a bit of scrap wood like a 2x4 to protect the chrome, and give it a whack.  You should feel the "wedge" fall down with the long bolt you just loosened.  

 

At that point the handlebars should come right up.  You might need to straddle the wheel with your knees to hold it as you turn the bars with your hands.  

 

If it still wont budge you can try hitting it again so that the whole stem drops down a little which should loosen it up. 

 

I doubt it will take more than that.  Don't hit the bolt head with the hammer itself unless it is rubber or nylon.  It is pretty soft and will dent and deform and you'll hate yourself every time you get on the bike and see it.  Don't ask me how I know...

Comment by MeganK on March 25, 2011 at 5:16am

Thanks for the responses, guys! I've never really worked on a bike before but I'm fairly handy so I figured I can learn as I go. The first step is to get it to the city so I can work on it more frequently. I was hoping to get the handlebars sorted out before I attempt to bring it on the train (I don't have a car). I'll start a thread when I get it so I don't clutter up the page. Thanks!

Comment by Far'arned Retrogrumpalunkus #63 on March 25, 2011 at 12:56am

Hub ID (stolen from Sheldon's pages so as not to steal his bandwidth).

 

There is a TON of information on Sheldon's site on English 3-speeds.  Just keep reading and following links.  You could spend weeks and weeks reading his life's work there. 

Comment by Far'arned Retrogrumpalunkus #63 on March 25, 2011 at 12:47am

Two ways to identify the age of the bike. 

Easiest way is to look at the date stamped on the rear hub.  This only works accurately if nobody has ever changed/replaced it with another one.  Wipe it off with a paper towel and the date code should easily be seen.  Because of the oil inside that leaks out all over this part is rarely rusted much. 

 

The next easiest way is to use this ID page to identify the year by the decals and lugs and a few other details.

 

You can also use this page on components and equipment to help zero it in. It takes a bit more knowledge to use.

 

Looking at that picture I think you might have a collection of parts from different years.  The 2030 tubing sticker dates it as '54 or newer.  I can't see the lugs very well but I would bet it is '55 or newer with the "modern" style.  

 

Seeing those brake levers I would say they are replacements from a much newer bike than that as they look like Weinmann's and not Nottingham stock.   

 

That Brooks doesn't look like standard equipment either on the sports but I might be wrong on that.  Most likely it was a dealer upgrade or a replacement from another model Raleigh. 

 

Speaking of that seat.  If you don't want to tackle it I might be willing to do you a trade for it.  Maybe we can work out a deal on some help depending on what you want to do with the bike.  I'd offer to do a full-on restoration for you but my dance card is pretty full right now.  It depends on your timetable.  Later on this spring if I can slim down the stable of bikes I might have room and time for another project.

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