Replies to This Discussion

Permalink Reply by Anne Alt on June 14, 2011 at 12:56am

Ouch!  That's a hard way to learn the lesson about keeping seeds out of the compost.  I have a few areas I've been trying to get under control that were fully infested with seriously invasive weeds when we bought the place. 

After many experiments, I found one approach that worked for a larger plant/larger area, and one that worked for individual plants. This assumes that one has already tried pulling weeds and had them grow back again.

Where I've occasionally had one very large invasive plant to kill (or many in one area, where there was nothing I wanted to save), I cut the plant down near ground level, then sprayed Roundup on the fresh-cut stems, being careful to avoid any overspray onto surrounding area.  If you work close, in non-windy conditions, and work slowly, it's not hard to contain the spray to only the plant you're trying to kill.  Occasionally I've had large or extremely persistent weeds come back (slightly weaker) after this treatment.  I then applied a big pot of boiling water.  That killed it. Not recommended where you have surrounding plants close by that you actually want to keep.

Another variant - for a weed that spreads by runners and/or had broad roots.  I cut the plant off just above ground level.  I spray Roundup on the fresh-cut stems, avoiding overspray.  Wait one week for plant to turn brown and look dead or very ill.  Break out the weeder tool and pull out the roots - much easier now that the plant is dead or very weak.  I've used this on buttercups and other plants with very tenacious roots that are ordinarily hard to fully remove. If the plant comes back again after that, use the same treatment again - spray, wait, pull.  If it comes back for a third round, it should be very weak compared to the original healthy plant, and the third round of treatment will probably knock it out for good.  Can you tell that I hate buttercups?  ;)  They're cute, but they're so *&#()$ invasive.

If your weed is very close to plants you want, you can use cardboard as a shield when spraying.  The only place it gets REALLY tricky is when the noxious weed is right against fruit or veggie plants.  There I DO NOT use Roundup, just manual weeding, because I don't want to risk getting Roundup on the fruit/veggie plants.

I'm not a big fan of using herbicides, but have been forced to use some to deal with invasives that had completely overrun some areas.  We have a large yard, and I've been able to effectively use Roundup in small enough quantities that a gallon lasts multiple seasons.  By keeping almost 100% of the herbicide on the target plants, we still have healthy populations of worms, birds, etc.

For the future, look carefully at any plants you're putting into the compost once the growing season has gotten going.  If there are seed heads and you can easily cut them off, put those in the trash.  Cut up the rest of the plant and put it into compost.  If it's too difficult to separate the seed heads from the plant, trash it.

Permalink Reply by dan brown on June 14, 2011 at 2:59am

iggi - there are multiple approaches to weed control; ranging from very eco-friendly to very toxic.

 

I would suggest planting a ground cover (preferably one that adds nitrogen back to the soil) that will

'crowd out' and suffocate the weeds. i.e. alfalfa, timothy or even clover. clover is esp. good as bees

will love it and maybe pollenate the flowers ? (just keep winston away from the hives ;-)

 

Another easy solution (but not as visually appealing, but also very eco-friendly) is lay black garbage bags over the patches of weeds; and place rocks on them and poke holes to let rainwater in. if they get no sun (Or air) they will eventually be smothered and then you have a non-toxic area to plant whatever you want in those spots.

 

good luck

dan

Permalink Reply by igz on June 14, 2011 at 4:38am

thanks.  ima try the boiling water approach on the paths.  i think the cardboard and black bag approach will work well in the beds with larger plants.  im still scratching my head what to do around the still small pepper plants, tomatoes, and other more clustered plantings.

 

the weeds in the grass are another nightmare.  ill share that pic when they grow back. again.

Permalink Reply by Erik Schulte on June 15, 2011 at 11:50am

Hey, I don't know if this was mentioned yet, but for the smaller plants I have found that if you spread some hey (like from a bail) around, it will block the weeds' chance of sunlight and prevent them from sprouting.  It has worked well for my garden.
iggi said:

thanks.  ima try the boiling water approach on the paths.  i think the cardboard and black bag approach will work well in the beds with larger plants.  im still scratching my head what to do around the still small pepper plants, tomatoes, and other more clustered plantings.

 

the weeds in the grass are another nightmare.  ill share that pic when they grow back. again.

Permalink Reply by igz on June 17, 2011 at 5:11am

this is my major weed plague...

what is it?

this is when its still small:

this is it...everywhere.  including throughout the garden.

Permalink Reply by igz on June 20, 2011 at 6:37am

its been recently suggested that this may be rhubarb.  sounds like it may be burdock.

Permalink Reply by Anne Alt on July 15, 2011 at 7:23am

I've used boiling water (with success), but on more limited areas.  Corrugated cardboard is a good weed block - useful for a season.  Using several layers of newspaper works, too.  For bigger, tougher stuff like what's in the picture, it probably wouldn't hurt to use boiling water, then cover with black plastic as insurance.

iggi said:

thanks.  ima try the boiling water approach on the paths.  i think the cardboard and black bag approach will work well in the beds with larger plants.  im still scratching my head what to do around the still small pepper plants, tomatoes, and other more clustered plantings.

 

the weeds in the grass are another nightmare.  ill share that pic when they grow back. again.