u-lock recommendations

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Permalink Reply by ad on March 17, 2011 at 3:40pm

If you use Sheldon's method, it is physically impossible to get the rear wheel out of the rear triangle without using a hacksaw (or I guess tacoing it but how would you do that without destroying the frame) to cut the rim.  The quote above from Sheldon's site explains it pretty well.  I also think Sheldon is right that most thieves probably wouldn't bother to do this in reality.  I've never heard of a real world example of a thief hack-sawing a rear rim, but I'm sure it has probably happened somewhere.  

 

My problem with Sheldon's method, however, is that if a thief doesn't know you can't get the wheel out, he could end up damaging the rim or the rear triangle trying to force it out--especially if it is a carbon frame.  That alone has made me stop using the method, and I use to do it a lot.      

James Baum said:

Test Sheldon's theory by just locking the rear wheel of your bike and see if the thieves don't take it because without the rear wheel (the most expensive single part of the bike). 

 

Finding a bike with an unlocked rear wheel in the correct size takes all of what, 45 seconds in this city?  5 minutes max if you have to walk down the street a block.   In a typical rack there is always one bozo who doesn't lock up his wheel(s).   I don't care if you have locking skewer, there is a really simple way to defeat those too with a common tool that can be bought in any second-hand store for $.50 or a dollar store for $1.  don't want to get into it here but the thieves know what it is already.  

 

The idea that someone won't take a bike without a working rear wheel is beyond being out of touch.  Rear wheels are easy to steal or to swap with other thieves.  

 

 

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Permalink Reply by Far'arned Retrogrumpalunkus #63 on March 17, 2011 at 4:01pm

Oh, I understand that there is no way to get the rear wheel through the rear triangle.  I was just trying to say that it is NO BETTER than just locking up the rear wheel OUTSIDE the rear triangle.  The thief is going to either leave the rear wheel behind or destroy it.   

 

I was trying to say that if anyone thinks Sheldon's method is good then they might test the theory by leaving only the rear wheel locked outside the rear triangle.  We all know the bike would be gone and the rear wheel left behind.  We've all seen wheels left locked to poles with the rest of the bike gone.  The theory that the thief will bypass the bike just because he's going to ruin the rear wheel is silly.   If he wants the frame he'll take it and find another wheel to swap onto it.

 

That's my point.

 

Oh, and it's easy to defeat a locking skewer too with a simple everyday tool -but that won't help with Sheldon's method.  It was a secondary point ;)

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Permalink Reply by David on March 17, 2011 at 6:28pm

With Sheldon's method, apart from the need for a tools, you also have the noticeability factor.  If somebody flips a quick-release and walks away with the bike most bystanders wouldn't even notice.  Tearing a tire apart, however, is very noticeable on the street.  At the very least it looks like vandalism. People might assume somebody with an angle grinder is rescuing their own bike, watching somebody tear the tire apart makes it look much more like a crime is being committed (ironically, because it looks like a less serious crime, I think people are more likely to intervene or call the cops). 

 

Does that matter?  Probably not very much.  IMO, if the pros want your bike, they'll get it. All you can really do is dissuade the casual thieves.

 

James Baum said:

Oh, I understand that there is no way to get the rear wheel through the rear triangle.  I was just trying to say that it is NO BETTER than just locking up the rear wheel OUTSIDE the rear triangle.  The thief is going to either leave the rear wheel behind or destroy it.   

 

I was trying to say that if anyone thinks Sheldon's method is good then they might test the theory by leaving only the rear wheel locked outside the rear triangle.  We all know the bike would be gone and the rear wheel left behind.  We've all seen wheels left locked to poles with the rest of the bike gone.  The theory that the thief will bypass the bike just because he's going to ruin the rear wheel is silly.   If he wants the frame he'll take it and find another wheel to swap onto it.

 

That's my point.

 

Oh, and it's easy to defeat a locking skewer too with a simple everyday tool -but that won't help with Sheldon's method.  It was a secondary point ;)

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Permalink Reply by Naomi Ruth Jackson on March 17, 2011 at 7:25pm

I'd go with anything Krypotonite. I have the yellow New York Lock.

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Permalink Reply by A.K.A Paul on March 17, 2011 at 9:08pm

I bought a set of the Masterlock cuffs at the Bike Winter Swap Meet and have been using them since. 

 

Here's the thing....They should only be used as the second or third locking method of locking.  I use a Kryptonite NY-first, a longer Kryptonite second and the cuffs as a third.

 

With the NY lock, the thief has to make two cuts through the lock to get your bike.  The Second Kryptonite only needs one cut.  I use the cuffs ala "Sheldon Brown" style on the rear tire.  The cuffs are probably easier cut than many types of locks but with one of the cuffs around the back tire, they cant ride the bike away, they have to carry it off in front of all the people that watched them cut the lock but yet did NOTHING. 

 

I believe bike thieves do the old cost benefit analysis when steeling bikes.  They are looking to take certain bikes that just take one cut to circumvent the lock and ride off with it.   

 

I make my bike NOT look like the type of bike they are looking to sell quickly.   

 

I make them do the math in their puny-little-pea-shit for brains that they have to sell my bike after they cut my NY lock twice, other Ulock once and the cuffs at least once.

 

The math they are going to do in their aforementioned dickheads is that the shiny new Masi with the one off-brand U lock or one cable lock next to my bike is much easier to cut and sell. 

I’m reasonably confident that I wont have a problem with a stolen bike until my method of security is the least secure method on the street and my bike becomes the most attractive bike to be resold. 

Sarah G said:

This is a really helpful thread. I want to also mention that I started using Master Lock Street Cuffs to lock my trailer. I wanted something more than just a cable lock which is what most people use. I don't know if they are a good second lock or not, but I figured since they are used to lock motorcycles they might be a good option. Plus it comes with an anti-theft guarantee up to $3500. The cuffs are a bit heavy but I've found that I can lock the trailer to all kinds of posts, bike racks, and even park benches without too much trouble. Anybody else have experience with these or know if they are a good option? I've been using mine all winter and so far so good.

 

I'm glad to learn that I should be using multiple locking mechanisms, especially since more bikes are out and about and I presume it is now prime season for theft. Thanks!

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