Touring Bicycles

Hey Yall, 

I just posted about a Seattle-SanFran trip that I'm taking in the fall and wanted to create a separate post about touring bikes....

If anyone can provide any advice on what kind of brand of bicycle is best, any requirements, musts, do's and don'ts about buying and riding a touring bike for long 1000+ mile trips. Thanks so much. 

Ride on. 

Jakki

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Permalink Reply by Lisa Curcio on July 26, 2013 at 2:39pm

Smallest frame size = 51 with standover of about 31 inches.  Not good for short people, no matter how beautiful.

Michael A said:

That Velo orange campuer is another awesome option, frameset is about 500 and you can have it built without bar end shifters.

Permalink Reply by prof.gfr on July 26, 2013 at 6:59pm

If you have the time an interest in buying a used frame, I'm a huge fan of the 600 and 1000 series Miyatas from the 1980s. They are terrific tourers and I know I've seen some small 615 and 615GTs on craigslist and ebay.  Old Trek touring bikes are great as well. I don't think it's been mentioned explicitly in these posts, but all the suggestions have been for steel frames (I think), with which I also agree. Aluminum is not as comfortable for day-long riding day-in-day-out.  And I don't think anyone makes a Carbon touring frame.  Good luck and have fun! 

Permalink Reply by Charlie Didrickson on July 27, 2013 at 1:59am

If you can fit the 39 this is a great bike...

http://brucegordoncycles.bigcartel.com/product/the-fully-loaded-blt...

Rides better loaded or unloaded than the others mentioned.

Don't worry too much however, it's a long ride but any solid bike will do the trick. Even a mid priced hybrid.

Enjoy

Permalink Reply by Joe M on July 27, 2013 at 7:54am

Do you have a budget in mind, Jakki?  New bikes are great--come with service and warranty--but they're certainly not the only way to go.  As mentioned, CL can be a decent alternative if you know what you're looking for.

 

The bike, below, is a 49cm, made from steel and pretty much hits all the marks.  The gearing on the rear wheel features an extra low (30 or 32 teeth) sprocket which will come in handy on big climbs and it's already equipped with fenders, rack, toe clips and rear blinky.  It even has a nice saddle and being offered at $350.

 

Is this the kind of thing you might be interested in?

http://chicago.craigslist.org/chc/bik/3948339641.html

Permalink Reply by Alex on July 27, 2013 at 10:28am

That Windsor is a nice townie. For touring any place with hills I'd look for something with a triple crank up front - spinning up a big hill at 6 miles an hour beats walking, or blowing out your knees. This is a nice bike, but maybe a bit over-priced, and maybe slightly too big - http://chicago.craigslist.org/wcl/bik/3959904388.html

Really what you want is a bike that is comfortable to ride all day, with gearing that gets you where you need to go. Also braze-ons that allow you to securely mount racks to hold your stuff, though comfort is more important. What kind of bike do you ride now, what size, and what would you need to change about it to make it comfortable to be on for 6-10 hours a day?

Permalink Reply by Jakki Cafarelli on July 27, 2013 at 3:02pm



Alex said:

That Windsor is a nice townie. For touring any place with hills I'd look for something with a triple crank up front - spinning up a big hill at 6 miles an hour beats walking, or blowing out your knees. This is a nice bike, but maybe a bit over-priced, and maybe slightly too big - http://chicago.craigslist.org/wcl/bik/3959904388.html

I ride a Fuji single speed. It's a decent bike. I think it's a 54cm. and probably a cm too big. I also have a Retrospec 49cm Fixed Gear bike (which I'm selling.....if anybody's interested) It's kind of like riding a big BMX bike, at least that's what it feels like to me. The Fuji is kind of a hodgepodge of parts and the frame weighs a lot too. I feel like I'd have to put a lot of work into it to make it what I want for touring. I'm willing to spend around 1000 on a new touring bike. 

Really what you want is a bike that is comfortable to ride all day, with gearing that gets you where you need to go. Also braze-ons that allow you to securely mount racks to hold your stuff, though comfort is more important. What kind of bike do you ride now, what size, and what would you need to change about it to make it comfortable to be on for 6-10 hours a day?

Permalink Reply by Jakki Cafarelli on July 27, 2013 at 3:14pm

Is this your bike? Do you have any pointers on finding a comfortable saddle? I hate my saddle right now. 

Joe M said:

The most important feature is to find one that fits well ... as if it was made for you.  Long hours in the saddle will exaggerate any fit issues over time and might end up being pretty painful.

 

In terms of bikes, I think there are several tried and true options which take some of the guesswork out of it:

 

Trek 520

Surly Troll (yes, you can definitely use a flat bar bike)

Novara Randonee

Salsa Vaya Travel

... probably others

 

What they all feature are: braze-ons (screw mounts) for racks and fenders, comfortable riding position, proper gearing for long distance touring, clearance for wider/softer tires.  In your case, the gearing is especially crucial since you'll be doing some serious climbs out West and need the right setup.  The bikes mentioned above are good out of the box.

 

While the right setup will let you carry quite a bit, try not to carry more than the absolute minimum ... clothes, food, water, travel necessities.  You'll have more fun if you don't feel like you're pedaling a motorcycle up a mountain.

Permalink Reply by Joe M on July 28, 2013 at 4:22am


 Jakki Cafarelli said:

Is this your bike? Do you have any pointers on finding a comfortable saddle? I hate my saddle right now.

 

Nah, that's not my bike.  Just a pic I grabbed off the internet.

 

As for saddle comfort, sure, I have a couple of pointers.  If you search the web, what you'll find are a couple common themes: everyone's different, it's a matter of personal preference, etc.  But few touch on causes of pain--butt soreness or soft tissue discomfort--which may not have anything to do with saddle design.  So before you buy another saddle, here's what I'd recommend:

 

- Check your current saddle position

- Check your posture

- Figure out where it hurts (if pain persists) and find a better fit

 

Saddle Position. Almost all saddles feel better when they're set level.  They're designed to distribute pressure evenly along your bottom side.  If it's set nose down, your butt will get sore.  Nose up and you'll have soft tissue discomfort.  Below is a pic of my very comfy MTB cruiser saddle which I can ride for hours without padded shorts and illustrates what level looks like:


Posture. To achieve more comfort, make sure you ride with a flat back.  This adjustment will rotate your pelvis forward and, not only disperse saddle pressure more evenly, but minimize lower back pain, allow you to breath better, engage your core muscles, increase power and reduce neck soreness.  This short, 2 min, video illustrates what better posture looks like:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rm8ML7eWUkk

 

Figure out where it hurts.  So if you're riding with a level saddle and flat back and you still hate your saddle, you need to figure out what's causing the discomfort.  For example, my comfy saddle pictured above features a hammock-like shape which can create too much soft tissue pressure for women and become uncomfortable within a few miles.  If you have a similar saddle and symptoms, you might want to try a flatter design, one without such big dip in the middle. 

This page provides a whole list of comfort issues and cures: http://www.cervelo.com/en/engineering/ask-the-engineers/the-four-an...

 

In terms of saddle recommendations, you might want to check the reviews here: http://www.teamestrogen.com/product/gear/on-your-bike/saddles/c0-c6...

 

And Specialized Bikes sells saddles separately.  Their stuff is great and, if you go to one of their stores, they'll measure you and show you which saddles will work for your dimensions: http://www.specialized.com/us/en/ftb/saddles/womens-recreational-sa...

 

Let me know if you have any other questions.  Getting saddle comfort figured out will definitely make your upcoming tour a lot more enjoyable.  And don't forget the chamois cream!

Permalink Reply by Jakki Cafarelli on July 28, 2013 at 6:35am
Permalink Reply by Thedutchtouch on July 28, 2013 at 7:20am
Looks decent to me, but on the higher end price wise. I'd offer 250 and see what happens.
Permalink Reply by Jakki Cafarelli on July 28, 2013 at 7:27am

Right on. Decent enough for a 1000+ mile tour? I'm going to go to Kozy and Comrades right now and do some testin out and see what feels right. Thanks everyone so much!!! I even just traded Chrome bags with a fellow from CL who has been emailing me advice on touring bikes as well. Love the Chainlink and the Chicago Bicycle Community. I'll keep posting as more questions and concerns arise as I prepare for this trip. Much love to everyone out there! and remember, you only got one soft jelly brain, protect it with a HELMET!!

Ride your wave. Spread your energy. 

Permalink Reply by Joe M on July 28, 2013 at 8:12am

Yes, helmets are cool.  :)

 

As for the CL bike, it's a good choice since it checks most of the boxes previously mentioned but it brings up another key contact point: hands.  You'll spend most of your time with your hands at the base of the hoods, so you'll want a setup that's super comfy.

 

The Panasonic's handlebar is of an older design and not great for all day comfort.  With this bar, you'll feel a lot of pressure on the webbing between your thumb and palm when riding on the hoods:

 

Modern road handlebars (like the FSA Omega Compact, below) often have a flatter top and ergo friendly bar/hood transition.  As you can see, the bar design works well with the shifter hoods to give you a nice spot to place your hands.

 

Pretty bike, though, and definitely well-maintained.  And those are really nice tires--new, comfy, classic good looks and perfect size for touring.  The handlebar is really the only weak point (easy to swap).  If it fits and you feel comfortable with the downtube shifters, it's certainly worth considering.

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