Suggestions for a Touring Bike

I am planning on getting a touring bike or a bike that can hold racks. I have always wanted a Long Haul Trucker, but would prefer to not have the same bike as half the city. Suggestions? I ride a 54 if anyone has one they are looking to get rid of

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Permalink Reply by Kevin Mulcky on April 24, 2012 at 8:41am

Have you ridden any of the models we're discussing? Give em a try, you'll see.

Made-to-purpose touring bikes have stouter tubing, longer chainstays, and front end geometry that makes for a better ride. Of course, many people tour on converted mountain bikes, whatever floats your boat.

Pricing is always relative.

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Permalink Reply by MagMileMarauder on April 24, 2012 at 8:57am

How does stouter tubing and longer chainstays and the front end geometry make a better ride? What loads are we discussing here? Are standard steel chromoly frames not strong enough for touring? Better ride in terms of what, comfort?

I guess I'll have to see to believe.

I'll agree with pricing being relative, some people don't mind splurging on certain things.

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Permalink Reply by Kevin Mulcky on April 24, 2012 at 9:00am

Are you just trolling here?

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Permalink Reply by MagMileMarauder on April 24, 2012 at 9:02am

What, are you a troll hunter? I find the use of the word "troll" overused here. If you don't like what I'm writing, or can't answer the question, ignore and move on.

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Permalink Reply by MagMileMarauder on April 24, 2012 at 9:37am

I guess I got my answer here:

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Touring_bicycle

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Permalink Reply by Liz on April 24, 2012 at 9:42am

The longer chain-stays help stabalize the load and prevent heel strikes with larger panniers on a rack. Additionally many mountain bikes don't come with eyelettes for racks and fenders, and the add on ones are not as strong and make break under continuous use.

Many people prefer the road bike bars for hand position options and shoulder comfort (having my arms on a mtb handlebar is wider than my shoulders and can cause fatigue).

The frame of my touring bike is designed to hold large loads (even unbalances ones) in a very stable state and the steel frame absorbs bumps and jostles very well. This has to do with both the extended geometry and the fork rake.

The first time I toured I used a loaded up mountain bike, and did not find the experiences as enjoyable. But I had a pretty bottom barrel mtb bike. The loaded mtb set up works well for many and is much less expensive, but I personally find the touring bikes to be a much more enjoyable for long loaded rides.

MagMileMarauder said:

How does stouter tubing and longer chainstays and the front end geometry make a better ride? What loads are we discussing here? Are standard steel chromoly frames not strong enough for touring? Better ride in terms of what, comfort?

I guess I'll have to see to believe.

I'll agree with pricing being relative, some people don't mind splurging on certain things.

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Permalink Reply by MagMileMarauder on April 24, 2012 at 12:01pm

Thanks. It's good to get some useful perspective. What I understand is that if you want a bike that was designed for heavy duty touring, this is the bike to buy ready-to-go.

A lot of the features like handlebars (swap for a different handlebars, and perhaps change brake cable, gearing cable and respective housings), and steel frame (chromoly bikes from 90s were very standard, and you can buy then on Craigslist easily) can be aquired cheaply and the labor isn't very complicated. A youtube tutorial, or a LBS mechanic can address this with ease. Eyelets for racks and fenders are also standard, as long as you're not buying a mountain bike with shocks on the fork. Even then, there are options with more fancier racks, but then that defeats the purpose of my frugal rant:)

For a medium-core touring person such as myself (and some 4000 miles of touring last year, more or less + 7000 of commuting on the same comfortable, upright bike. I was perfectly happy and didn't experience any rack failure. Then again, my loads are not very large. I carry a tent, bag, toiletries, water, and everything else is extremely minimal.

If you want to treat yourself to something nice and ready-to-go and designed for some serious long distance touring (more than 1000 miles per tour, would be my guess), I see definitely see the appeal of a touring bike.

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Permalink Reply by Lanterne Rouge on April 24, 2012 at 12:26pm

I don't particularly like most mountain bike geometries. I've got a Trek 7.3 FX which I haven't rode since January, mostly because it's a hybrid with said 'mountain bike geometry'.

Different strokes for different folks, I guess. The longest ride I ever did with the Trek was only 40 miles, and I did not like it. Too upright. I couldn't imagine touring across the country with one.

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Permalink Reply by ilter on April 24, 2012 at 12:57pm

Right, of course, I missed that.

Andy Moss said:

True; they're Japanese Domestic Market bikes, which is why they come only in smaller sizes. The frames are available in the same sizes regardless whether they have the factory couplers.

ilter said:

I noticed those Panasonics in Yellow Jersey too. They looked great. But they seem to come only in smaller sizes & longer people end up using tall stems & seat posts. Frame splits, it might be a travel version and maybe that is why they keep the frame small.

Andy Moss said:

For something a bit unique, two years ago I picked up a new Panasonic OSD7 touring frame from Yellow Jersey in Madison WI.

[snip]

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Permalink Reply by Matt M. 18.5KM on April 24, 2012 at 2:26pm

Eh - get an old steel hybrid bike and put front and rear racks on it. I'm partial to the Trek 700 Multitrack however I scored a Raleigh C50 frame on Ebay a couple years ago and it's great! Rides like a tank but I was looking for something stout and comfy.

Be different. Convert a hybrid.