"Sheldon Brown" locking technique--personal experiences

Hello,

I've read a lot of opinions about the Sheldon Brown lock strategy (http://sheldonbrown.com/lock-strategy.html). I understand that it can be defeated by cutting through the wheel, and that this is not as difficult to do as Sheldon claimed in that article.

However, I'm really interested to hear whether this actually happens much in Chicago (cutting the wheel), whether people still use this method, and whether they've had any problems with it.

I have an Abus Futura Mini that is too small to lock through both the frame and wheels (they have deep V rims which make them a little too wide (but maybe these are also a little harder to cut through?)). I really love the light weight and size of this lock and I would like to find a way to make it work rather than replacing it with something bigger and heavier. It is the perfect size for the Sheldon Brown method. Alternatively, of course, I could lock it through only the frame (but not the wheel). I'm wondering which is the better course of action.

Potentially-relevant details: I never leave the bike outside overnight. Usually when I'm locking it it's because I'm shopping or at a bar or restaurant, so it's there for a few hours maximum. The bike is a new (but low-end) single-speed hybrid/commuter/utility type bike. Wheels are bolt-on, not quick-release.

Thank you in advance!

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That's exactly what I use my rack for! :-) It's an extra five pounds off my back, plus I don't need to throw my dirty, grimy lock into my bag.

jolondon30 said:

fyi if you get a rear bike rack it's easy to put the standard kryptonite on it and a cable for the front wheel. Those brackets never work well..have tried for years. Of course the rack and lock probably add 8-10 lbs but I find the rack extremely useful for carrying things.  

Adam Herstein (5.5 mi) said:

I always lock up my bike in the bike room because it's incredibly easy for a thief to tailgate someone into the room without a key. 50 unlocked bikes vs. my locked bike pretty much guarantees they won't bother with my bike.

My concern with the mini-lock is that it might be able to be maneuvered though the chainstays if the real wheel is removed. (Although Sheldon does mention using a mini-lock in his article). Is this true?

Then if you have a rack why not carry the larger U lock?  From what I have read your lock won't stop anybody with an angle cutter.  As bike racks are getting mysteriously larger in Chicago a larger lock would let you thread the chainstay and easily lock up with larger poles.

My assumption was you were using the smaller lock because you carry it your pants or jacket like the cool kids do.

The smaller lock does fit in my bag better, but I use it because its harder to leverage open a smaller lock.

got it.  

This is true, but its hard to cut the tire with a hack saw. unfortunately, I walked by a sad sight the other day... U lock that was only holding a tire. I can only assume someone used the Sheldon method and the thief cut the rim and ripped the tire off, leaving only the tire behind.

After reading this I thought I'd keep an eye out for similar locked tires and sure enough, this is what I saw yesterday on North Avenue in front of West Marine:


seems strange.  There is no wheel in there.  Lock isn't cut.  How could you remove wheel and not the tire? Does not compute.

The only thing that is hard to cut with a hack saw is the tire. The steel or aluminum wheel is cut, bent around the lock, and the tire is ripped off the rim. This leaves only the tire locked, while the mangled rim and attached frame are now free. I always lock the wheel AND part of the rear triangle.

hmm..I'll have to think about that but I'm sure you are right. 

I probably park my bike 4-6x a day 350 days a year and have never ever seen a locked tire like this.

Personally, I've used the Sheldon method a lot, and have never had a problem. I never, or very rarely, lock up overnight. I realize the Sheldon method is not perfect, but I do think the bike becomes relatively less attractive to a thief, once the rear wheel is destroyed.

I've appreciated all the advice and commentary in this thread.

I've continued to use the Sheldon method most of the time, since I rarely leave my bike locked outdoors for more than an hour or two, and since it is an inexpensive bike. But I think I would probably make a different decision if I had a more expensive bike and if I had to leave it locked unattended for a full eight-hour workday (or overnight).

On the other hand, at the rack where I saw that locked tire pictured above, I decided to lock through the frame instead! (The short shackle on my lock just doesn't fit both the wheel and the stays most of the time, depending on the diameter of the rack.)

I think the whole issue is moot if you use a hardened chain instead. Allows you to lock around most streetlight poles, too. Sheldon may be right but why not just lock everything and be sure?

In the past with a U-Lock I used to get the rim, through the seat tube, then to the thing I was locking to, and it worked fine. 

Based on this thread I've dropped teh Sheldon method as I have a recently expensive bike!

Eli Naeher said:

I've appreciated all the advice and commentary in this thread.

I've continued to use the Sheldon method most of the time, since I rarely leave my bike locked outdoors for more than an hour or two, and since it is an inexpensive bike. But I think I would probably make a different decision if I had a more expensive bike and if I had to leave it locked unattended for a full eight-hour workday (or overnight).

On the other hand, at the rack where I saw that locked tire pictured above, I decided to lock through the frame instead! (The short shackle on my lock just doesn't fit both the wheel and the stays most of the time, depending on the diameter of the rack.)

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