https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=u8P8K1WCY2w&feature=player_embe...
I would suggest.. Putting your derailleur, side up, not down.
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Yea, that's a key step when you don't pinch flat. Otherwise you'll be doing another sub-two minute tire change a few miles down the road. I think the coolest part of this video is the wheel removal and remounting, it's just so smooth.
Chris C said:
They must have edited-out the part where he checks the tire to ensure the sharp object isn't still embedded in the tire. About half of my flats require a tire glassectomy.
Has anyone on here actually used this tool? I would love for an easier way to change out a flat.
They must have edited-out the part where he checks the tire to ensure the sharp object isn't still embedded in the tire. About half of my flats require a tire glassectomy.
They also skip the part where a good part of the time using the tool to lever the tire back in results in the lever making a hole in the tube. I've learned the hard way that you really want to use just your hands and thumbs to get the tire back in unless it's absolutely impossible with bare hands.
Chris C said:
They must have edited-out the part where he checks the tire to ensure the sharp object isn't still embedded in the tire. About half of my flats require a tire glassectomy.
Use bigger tires and you probably won't need tires levers at all.
Dang, that's too bad. They will probably stretch out eventually. But certain tire/rim combinations can make for a really tight match. I mostly use 32mm Pasellas on the roads and a few different CX tires for off road. They all can be removed and mounted easily without levers.
I don't like hard case tires because their stiffness makes the ride more harsh, slower, and evidently harder to remove.
+1000
The public streets are not a velodrome. Save the skinny racing tires for the track...
Most tires I can use my fingers with. Tough ones sometimes needs a pair of Pedro's tools (in hot pink as I dig Pinks and Purples.) Then there are the really tough cases when even a pedro's doesn't cut it and then I use a Kool-Stop Tire Jack. That thing can stretch out any bead and get it up and over the rim without damage to tire, tube, or rim -even the worst cases of malfitment.
Some of the Sun-Riggle CR18 sizes run quite a bit tight for their stated ISO size, and if you are trying to get away with an old-style rubber rim strip and not using rim-tape they can be quite the bear to mount a tire on. Once I even used Astroglide to help lube the tire when I was really stuck before I got the Kool-Stop jack.
Kelvin Mulcky said:
Use bigger tires and you probably won't need tires levers at all.
A pair of wire bead Vittoria Randonneur 700 x 32 tires onto velocity deep v rims are some of the worse tires I have ever mounted, and that's including my experience mounting wire bead 700 x 28 and 700 x 25 Conti Gatorskins I run on my other two bikes. Some tire and rim combinations are just destined to be a horrible experience.
I second the recommendation on the Kool Stop Tire Jack tool. Fairly cheap, and definitely the best tool I've found for mounting stubborn tires without damaging the tube.
Melanie said:
Darn, that is what I thought. I've punctured too many tubes using a lever to put the tire back on and now use only my thumbs and hands. I was hoping this would be an alternative as I have some really tight fitting and hard to seat tires on one of my bikes. Is there any type of tool out there that can help re-seat a tire without using bare hands and/or brute force?
S said:
They also skip the part where a good part of the time using the tool to lever the tire back in results in the lever making a hole in the tube. I've learned the hard way that you really want to use just your hands and thumbs to get the tire back in unless it's absolutely impossible with bare hands.
Chris C said:
They must have edited-out the part where he checks the tire to ensure the sharp object isn't still embedded in the tire. About half of my flats require a tire glassectomy.
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