I am very sad today as I think I have to put my bicycle out of its misery. Its a 28 year old Raleigh Aleyseka. It has shown great service. I purchased it new and had many years of great riding. Last night, I hit a pot hole. Then it suddenly felt "loose". I thought I had hurt a wheel. I looked back and saw when I pushed on the peddle, the wheel wobbled. Okay. A Wheel. So I got off and looked at the wheel. It looked fine. Then I saw the problem. The right chainstay right at the drop out had broken.
I assume, at this point, that the bicycle is "dead" as all of my research says this is not easily fixable (and certainly not worth fixing on a 28 year old Reynolds Steel Frame with old components).
So, what do I do. Should I take it to working bikes? Should I strip off some components and take it to working bikes (likely very little is usable.... the derailleurs are old, the brakes are cantilever, the handlebars are an "out-of-date" road shape. ) Should I strip off some of the components and put it in the alley? Should I find a way to keep it? Should I fix it?
Tags:
+1 & bookmarked.
These are brilliant. An elegant solution to this problem that I've never seen before. Thanks KevinM!
KevinM said:
Have these been mentioned yet? Offset brake pad holders that add 7mm of reach. http://www.bdopcycling.com/BDop%20Offset%20Holders.asp
Wow, guys...thanks! The offset brake pad holders will probably do the trick if my new Shimano BR-CX70 brakes don't make it happen.
Really, it's a relief to finally get this done. Also for some reason I was thinking that center pulls don't mount to canti studs - which was totally wrong....but the studs are too low to mount them on my bike.
James BlackHeron said:
+1 & bookmarked.
These are brilliant. An elegant solution to this problem that I've never seen before. Thanks KevinM!
KevinM said:Have these been mentioned yet? Offset brake pad holders that add 7mm of reach. http://www.bdopcycling.com/BDop%20Offset%20Holders.asp
The only real downsides of this offset holder is that they might be a little more difficult setting up to sit on the rim in the correct plane and the correct toe-in. They will want to rotate if you squeeze the brake lever rather than bedding in on the same plane and self-adjusting with the concave washer. You will have to hold them exactly where you want them as you tighten the pads without the help of the brakes keeping them from rotating. You'll need strong fingers to hold the pad against the rim while you tighten the bolt down to keep it from rotating or twisting on the eye-socket washer. Not impossible, but a little more fiddling around -especially if you have a rack or other things in the way impeding your access to the brakes and making it hard to get your hand in there.
Once it is set, you should never have to fiddle with it again. Just replace the inserts as they wear out. As long as you don't loosen up the bolt they shouldn't change their adjustment.
A set of Jagwire Brake Pad Tuner Toe-in Tools would come in handy to help this procedure along. I've got a set and really like them. They work for most common brake pads and rim combinations. They aren't necessary if you know what you are doing but they sure make it easier and faster to get them perfect every time once you get how to use them.
The new cantis are not dialing in right. BDOP to the rescue.
Matt M. 18.5KM said:
Wow, guys...thanks! The offset brake pad holders will probably do the trick if my new Shimano BR-CX70 brakes don't make it happen.
Really, it's a relief to finally get this done. Also for some reason I was thinking that center pulls don't mount to canti studs - which was totally wrong....but the studs are too low to mount them on my bike.
James BlackHeron said:+1 & bookmarked.
These are brilliant. An elegant solution to this problem that I've never seen before. Thanks KevinM!
KevinM said:Have these been mentioned yet? Offset brake pad holders that add 7mm of reach. http://www.bdopcycling.com/BDop%20Offset%20Holders.asp
They didn't work.
I've bought a used pair of Weinmann 610 (now made by Dia Compe) center pulls from the Recyclery. To get the front to work, I'll have to cut off the top part of the brake boss or stud. I'll thread it for M6 to make it viable for a replacement stud, but I'm going to use it for a light mount. I have to put a few spacers on the brake bolt to take the pads away from the base of the canti braze on, but that's only about 4-5mm and the bolt seems to be designed for this as it sticks out the same distance from the nut at the back of the fork.
Damn. Wish I had done this 2 months ago, but then I wouldn't have known what a stupid idea it was to put cantis on this bike in the 700C conversion. Now I also have to get my f'n $200 back for the CX70 brakes AND the BDOP offset holders - damn. I tried. I fought valiantly. I was stubborn. I lost the battle, but the war to make this bike rideable with fat tires and touring wheels has been won.
So this old horse lives on to ride thousands of miles into the future. Grant Peterson would be proud.
Matt M. 18.5KM said:
The new cantis are not dialing in right. BDOP to the rescue.
Matt M. 18.5KM said:Wow, guys...thanks! The offset brake pad holders will probably do the trick if my new Shimano BR-CX70 brakes don't make it happen.
Really, it's a relief to finally get this done. Also for some reason I was thinking that center pulls don't mount to canti studs - which was totally wrong....but the studs are too low to mount them on my bike.
James BlackHeron said:+1 & bookmarked.
These are brilliant. An elegant solution to this problem that I've never seen before. Thanks KevinM!
KevinM said:Have these been mentioned yet? Offset brake pad holders that add 7mm of reach. http://www.bdopcycling.com/BDop%20Offset%20Holders.asp
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