The Chainlink

Hennepin Canal Trail

I'm sure most of you are aware of it, but for those who aren't, the Hennepin Canal Parkway has approximately 155 miles of trail in Bureau, Henry, Rock Island and Whiteside Counties.   The canal was the first to use locks constructed of concrete, which pioneered the technique for lock construction on the Panama Canal, and the first to use Marshall Gate locks.  The main canal connects the Rock River near where it flows into the Mississippi with the Illinois River.  Water in the main canal flows both east and west from the middle, and is fed by the Rock River at Rock Falls, approximately 25 miles north.  This north/south section, known as the Feeder Canal, was meant only to supply water, not for barge traffic.  The canal was closed to barge traffic in 1951.

 

I live in the general area, and work parts of the trail into my rides, usually at least once a week.  Seldom see any cyclists on the central sections of the park, within 20 miles of the visitor center where I normally ride.  The place needs more use.  I was talking to a ranger a couple of weeks ago, and he was telling me about some of the maintenence issues that exist.  The staff has been cut by 2/3, from 21 down to 7.  Blago had the place nearly shut down at one point, which meant not only no maintenance, but anyone caught "trespassing" would be subject to fines.

 

The only way the place will be properly funded is if useage increases, and people voice their support for funding it.

 

The bike path surface varies from some short paved sections, to oil and chip, to fine limestone.  I've ridden the limestone on a normal road bike, and it is actually quite smooth and fast.  Horses can roughen the surface quite a bit if they're on it when it's wet, so CX or MTB bikes are probably a better choice.  Also be careful in the few spots near the locks that have a grade, the limestone washes loose and can be tricky if you're doing 20 mph when you hit it.  Last year I rode the whole length of the main canal, and there were some washed out places where you had to carry the bike across.  I don't know if they've been repaired or not.  You can't ride far without seeing some wildlife, geese, ducks, blue heron, deer and wild turkeys are common.

 

I'm posting this as an invitation/plea for people to come out and use the Park.  It's a 2 hour drive from Chicago to the visitor center just south of I-80 exit 45.  The visitor center is near the center of the main canal, and a couple of miles east of the Feeder junction.  You can also ride Amtrak to Princeton and bring your bike along for $15 extra.   You can easily ride the road to the path (about 6 miles), and see the Captain Swift covered bridge on the way.  The mid 19th century Red Covered Bridge can be seen with a detour of a few miles.

 

I'd be happy to assist anyone that would like to visit with local information or some company on your ride.  Pics are from a ride I did last September.

 

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Replies to This Discussion

Permalink Reply by Dave Jacque on August 26, 2011 at 12:43pm

Mark - Thanks for the tip! Looks like a real treat, and I'll give the trail a try on an upcoming weekend.

Permalink Reply by mark stetson on September 2, 2011 at 10:09pm

Dave, if you come out be sure to contact me.  While an out and back on the trail is OK, I think it's more fun to make a loop on the road to get back to the starting point.  I can steer you in the right direction for a good route, and would be happy to ride with you if we can schedule it.

 

 

Permalink Reply by Ken Gray on September 2, 2011 at 10:34pm
Thanks for this post. I've often driven past on my way to Macomb (sons in school) and wondered about it. I think I'll have to make the time to stop someday, this fall if possible. It looks just great.
Permalink Reply by mark stetson on September 2, 2011 at 10:37pm

Here's a couple of pictures of the aquaduct over the west branch of Bureau Creek.  One from the creek bed, with the canal being carried over the creek in the structure that looks like a bridge.  The other is the view from the bike path adjacent to the aquaduct.

Permalink Reply by MagMileMarauder on September 2, 2011 at 11:09pm

I just crossed the entire canal today (from Princeton's Amtrak Station) and, honestly, the trail was OK. The I&M side is MUCH better.

 

Maybe it was the heat, but I saw 5 bikes in about 50 miles of trail.

 

 

 

Here's why,

 

1. No water. I found one fountain that was out of order..frustrating. Luckily I have cargo and hauled about 2 gallons in this heat.

2. No shade, or trees blocking the wind. The north side of the canal is mostly rough pavement, which is wide enough that the trees don't form a canopy over the trail. From a esthetic perspective, it's not that attractive either. There are sections of the southern side that looked like it was a mirroring trail. Plenty of shade, but overgrown with weeds, etc.

3. Damaged trail.Between Green River and Colona there are signs that say "TRAIL CLOSED". I went through anyways as I didn't know what other alternatives I had. The pavement is damaged, and some parts one must proceed with a lot of caution since the are mini landslides. Also, there's a small detour over what looked like was fallen bridge or road. No signs far in advance.

 

Overall, I wouldn't recommend it. There are many better trails in suburban Chicago, and after crossing the Katy Trail in Missouri (300 miles of excellent and well maintained trail), my standards are a bit high.

 

But yeah, the aqueducts were cool to check out and the wildlife was nice to have around. Just not a good trail. Like Mark said, you can tell that almost no money goes into this trail.

 

Permalink Reply by mark stetson on September 3, 2011 at 12:00pm

Interesting comments.  I have never looked for water along the trail as I generally carry my own.  There are numerous small towns close by where water is available, but it might take a mile ride off the path to get to several of them.  There are convenience stores and/or taverns in Bureau, Tiskilwa, Wyanet, Mineral, Annawan, Geneseo, and Green Rock, all within about a mile of the trail.  Sheffield, Atkinson, and Tampico (Feeder Canal) are within 2 about miles of the trail.  I would think that there is water at the visitor center, and possibly some of the camping areas.  I will check it out.

 

Shade does vary, depending on where you are.  Since the canal runs generally east/west, you won't get much effect from the trees in mid summer.  The rest of the year the path will have much more shade.  Actually the overhanging trees are a bit of a problem on sections of the Feeder canal.  There is so much fallen debris that it makes for a very rough ride.  I asked about volunteers doing trail maintenence.   The park has a powered brush, but won't allow volunteers to use it.  So I'm considering raking some of the worst sections by hand this fall.

 

We've had several years in a row with extended periods of heavy rain.  Muskrats and beaver are continuously working on the canal banks.  The combination results in breaks, holes, and washouts in the trail.  The staff is hard pressed to keep the holes plugged.  The closed signs are put up mainly for liability reasons, I would guess.

 

Your comments underscore my feelings about the place.  It's a long way from perfect.  I'm not sure what year the bike path construction started, but it's not been 10 years, I don't think.  It's still relatively new and unknown.  For improvements to take place, usage must increase.    I still enjoy riding it, even with its faults.  To me it's fairly unique, and more interesting than a rail trail.  If you don't take the time to stop and look at the locks and lift bridges, you are missing much of its appeal.   

Permalink Reply by mark stetson on September 3, 2011 at 12:05pm


Ken Gray said:
Thanks for this post. I've often driven past on my way to Macomb (sons in school) and wondered about it. I think I'll have to make the time to stop someday, this fall if possible. It looks just great.
Ken, if you want to ride some time, let me know.
Permalink Reply by mark stetson on September 5, 2011 at 11:26pm

I checked a few places for water today.  The campsites at lock 21 have a well, but there's a broken pipe, so it is out of service.   I did find water at the visitors center.  There's a tap on the north side of the building near the main doors.  There may be water other places near the visitor's center too, but I didn't investigate further.    There is water at the campsites at lock 22, just west of the Feeder junction.

 

I saw a pelican perched on a log today, something I hadn't seen before.

Permalink Reply by Paul on September 6, 2011 at 10:03am

I was looking at the Hennepin Canal Trail for a Fall 3 day ride when I stumbled onto your site (It was'nt easy; it was on the 10th page of Google “Hennepin Canal Parkway” +bicycle” search). At any rate it's been a big help answering the question: is it ridable on a folding bike with 20x1.5 tires?

 

I'm thinking of taking the early train from Quincy to Kewanee, heading north to the trail near Annawan, heading west to spend the night in E. Moline, returning east to a motel near Sheffield, and finally riding to the end at Bureau Junction, backtracking to near Tiskilwa, and then heading north to Princeton to catch the late train back to Quincy. Does this look reasonable?

 

 

A few questions:

 

Trail conditions and landmarks are referenced by lock and bridge numbers. Is there a map of the trail showing where these are?

 

Do you know if there is food (cafe, convenience store) in Bureau Junction?

 

The route from Princeton with the covered bridge: would that be 2050E? By the way, bikes on Amtrak's Illinois service are $10 each way. Folders go free as carry on luggage.

 

Is there any advantage to reversing the route; i.e., Princeton, Bureau, Colona, Kewanee?

 

What is your opinion of option 2? Mendota Amtrak to the Hennepin Canal, backtrack to Tiskilwa for a late breakfast, then to Bureau, road to Lasalle/Peru, I&M to end near Joliet, Old Plank Rd Trail to either New Lenox or Mokena, then the old Rock Island to Lasalle Street Station and back on Amtrak?

 


 Thank you.

 

Permalink Reply by mark stetson on September 6, 2011 at 2:51pm

I have looked a couple of times for a detailed map online but haven't found one yet.  I will try to check at the visitor's center to see if they have anything in print.  There are outdoor maps covered in lexan in a couple of places, but some are so faded that they are hard to read.

 

There's a tavern in Bureau Junction (the Ranch House) that may have food.  I will check to see if there's anything else.  Tiskilwa has a couple of taverns that are popular eating places for locals, a convenience store,  and Guido's for pizza and sandwiches.

 

The Swift Bridge pictured above is on 1600N, just west of Princeton.   The old Red Covered Bridge is north of Princeton on the southern end of 1950E.  Easiest access is from Rt 26, about a mile north of I-80.

 

No advantage that I can think of to reversing the route.   You should stop at Johnson Sauk Trail Park on the way up to the canal from Kewanee, if only to see Ryan's Round Barn.  I will try to get a picture.  Francis Park, east of Kewanee, is also interesting.  The house is built of brick carried from town on a bicycle.  

 

Re Sheffield:  2 good restaurants, Bellucio's and Z Best Cafe.  Chestnut Street Inn B&B also serves a full meal, Friday and Saturday evenings, I think.  Nice Place to stay but more costly than the motel. You can check out Z Best and Chestnut Street Inn online.    I'm not sure if the motel restaurant is open currently.  Recent change in ownership, so I'm not sure.  There is also a small house for overnight stays located right on the canal near Mineral.  I will try to locate info on it.  The lady that owns it went to quite a lot of work to get it open, and I'm sure it's not rented very often.

 

I might suggest riding the road part way back from Colona, unless you just want to stick to the trail.

 

Option 2:  Why Mendota instead of Princeton?  Over 35 miles down to Tiskilwa, only 8 from Princeton.  There is a nice steam engine on display at the Mendota station.   I haven't checked the train schedule, but most stop in Princeton.  I can help some with the route to LaSalle, but haven't ridden east of Starved Rock State Park myself.  You might want to check it out too.  Perhaps other chain linkers will comment on the rest of this route.

  

Does your folding bike have suspension?  The limestone path isn't the smoothest, especially where the horses have been on it, so I'm a bit leary of the combination.   I've never ridden 20" wheels.  You will have to be especially careful in the loose spots.  None of the loose areas are more than 100' or so in distance, but you need to be careful.   I rode the length of the canal last year on a road bike with 23 or 25c tires, but don't want to give the impression that the path is ideal for road bikes.   

Permalink Reply by Paul on September 6, 2011 at 5:16pm

Thanks for the great scoop!

As far as the 20" wheels are concerned, that is one of those deep philosophical debates that will never be answered.  I rate them in between 23c road tires and 35c hybrids for comfort and ridability on less than perfect surfaces.  All I can say is I've done Pittsburgh to Cumberland on the Great Allegheny Passage and the Erie Canal Buffalo to Albany on the folder.  The GAP ranged from the best crushed limestone/pea gravel (limestone screenings in Illinois jargon) anywhere to a few places with rocks sticking through the surface.  The Erie canal ranged from excellent limestone/pea gravel (stone dust in NY jargon) to double track where is was easier to ride on the grass in wet conditions.  And suspension is against my religion.  I don't mind walking 100 yards are so.  So it looks like I should be OK.

 

As far as Mendota vs. Princeton is concerned, you are right.  That was a typo.  I guess if I were to do only the I&M, not the east end of the Hennepin as well, Mendota would be the place.

 

For what it is worth, I consider myself the world's foremost authority on Amtrak and bicycles (talk about being a big fish in an miniscule pond!).  I've literally been from San Diego to NY, Seattle to Florida, and the Gulf Coast to Minnesota on Amtrak with my bike. 

Permalink Reply by Jeff Markus on September 10, 2011 at 10:02pm

I had to do some work out in Walnut IL several years ago and the nearest motel was the Ramada at the canal crossing in Sterling/Rock Falls. On one trip out there I brought my bike and did a few miles of the feeder canal trail. As with all canal trails the terrain is flat thus easy riding but crossing the farmland can be less than breath taking. The joy of rolling thru miles of Illinois farmland and traveling a historic industrial thruway before the day of petrochemical dependence makes up for the lack of challenging mountains or white knuckle descents.

The regular road crossings usually offer places to pause tho facilities can be farther apart.

The legacy of the growth of agriculture and industry in Illinois birthed by the power of our gentle rivers and fertile land is worthy of exploring and seeing the monocultured farms feeding the ADM agribiz machine should be a wake up call to anyone that values the land and future of American food.

Please take the OP up on his invitation to experiance the heart of Illinois and its history as well as its future

Jeff

The Chicagoan

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