Well - I can't believe it but the search turned up NOTHING for bike trailers....What's up with that?

Anyway, thought I'd post these handy trailer kits for hauling stuff around town. They are less costly than the complete ones sold by Burley, etc.

http://www.bikerev.com/pg6.cfm

The 150 pounds of stuff hauler -
http://www.wicycle.com/cargo_diy_kit_bicycle_trailer.php

Totally ghetto with a pallet as the surface. The Wike is much cleaner by comparison.
http://trailers.xntrick.co.uk/

If only I could weld somewhere... These kits are bolted or screwed together. The Wike appears to be the best for the money.

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I bought the Wike kit today. It's just too good to pass up. Obviously it's quite versatile in that it can be built into any combination of different sizes. Their rep says the parts in the kit weigh about 10 pounds so I'll factor that in when I tour. It's also going to be great for moving stuff.

I needed a trailer that could haul and one that could tour, so instead of splitting them up I took the budget option and will use this one for both right now. It also looks like I could pack it up if I need to get on a train, bus, etc. Gotta wonder how smooth rolling the wheels are but they look like they'll be just fine over a long haul.

Thanks!
I am interested to hear how this project turns out.
Just up to Wisc. That's it.

This is my first trailer - it's long overdue.

H3N3 said:
Looks cool. 20" wheels make for easier rolling.
What sort of distances are you planning to do, where, and what time of year?
Sorry if that was in the other thread and I missed it.

Matt M. said:
I bought the Wike kit today. It's just too good to pass up. Obviously it's quite versatile in that it can be built into any combination of different sizes. Their rep says the parts in the kit weigh about 10 pounds so I'll factor that in when I tour. It's also going to be great for moving stuff.

I needed a trailer that could haul and one that could tour, so instead of splitting them up I took the budget option and will use this one for both right now. It also looks like I could pack it up if I need to get on a train, bus, etc. Gotta wonder how smooth rolling the wheels are but they look like they'll be just fine over a long haul.

Thanks!
Now THIS is what i call a Trailer...

Wow! The Wike wheel hubs are INSANE!!! They feel as smooth as any Phil Wood hub!!!

The brand is Assess.

http://www.assess-hubs.com/

H3N3 said:
If you break it down to about 30-40 miles a day you might not regret the trailer decision.
For anything more you'll absolutely want to stick to loading the bike if at all possible.
If you're looking to challenge yourself physically you might survive a 60-70-mile day with your new trailer without hating it, but that's a tough 60-70 miles.

Matt M. said:
Just up to Wisc. That's it.
This is my first trailer - it's long overdue. H3N3 said:
Looks cool. 20" wheels make for easier rolling.
What sort of distances are you planning to do, where, and what time of year?
Sorry if that was in the other thread and I missed it.

Matt M. said:
I bought the Wike kit today. It's just too good to pass up. Obviously it's quite versatile in that it can be built into any combination of different sizes. Their rep says the parts in the kit weigh about 10 pounds so I'll factor that in when I tour. It's also going to be great for moving stuff.

I needed a trailer that could haul and one that could tour, so instead of splitting them up I took the budget option and will use this one for both right now. It also looks like I could pack it up if I need to get on a train, bus, etc. Gotta wonder how smooth rolling the wheels are but they look like they'll be just fine over a long haul.

Thanks!
FWIW, my shop is closing out remaining Burley cargo trailer: $200 for the flatbed, $225 for the Nomad.
OK, I'll try. I'd completely forgotten about the swap! There are only a few left, but I have any on the 6th, I'll bring them.

H3N3 said:
Please please please bring 'em to the swap!
J said:
FWIW, my shop is closing out remaining Burley cargo trailer: $200 for the flatbed, $225 for the Nomad.
Here's the build - I felt like the farmer in "The Pot" video on YouTube since Wike barely left ANY instructions. AND WATCH OUT - ALUMINUM IS EXPENSIVE.

Here's a kit of parts for a 2'-0" wide by 2'-6" long trailer, supporting up to 150 pounds.

Tools needed:
-electric drill
-drill socket to drive in the bolts
-drill bit set
-socket set
-hack saw
-tape measure
-fine tip permanent marker (black/red)
-framer's square or carpenter's square

Parts:

(36) 1/4 X 1" long self drilling hex head bolts, use 7mm X 13mm (min. length) bolts if you strip out any of the aluminum holes. Drill out the PLASTIC ONLY to 9/32" to accept the 7mm bolts before replacing the loose 1/4" bolts.
(36) 1/4" washers
(36) 1/4" lock washers
1"X1" aluminum bar:
(1) 2'-9-3/4" left hand upper side to connect hitch to bike, 1/8" wall
(3) 2'-6" rails at sides, 1/16" wall
(1) 1'-8" transaxle, 1/8" wall, (install at the axle support brackets, determines width)
(2) 1'-8" rails at front and back, 1/16" wall

Total Aluminum needed:

4'-5-3/4" of 1/8" X 1" X 1" tubing
9'-2" of 1/16" X 1" X 1" tubing

Make sure the TRANSAXLE for the wheel mounts is directly in the center of the right side 2'-6" rails. Make sure all your cuts for the aluminum are precise, square, and even.

When using 7mm X 13mm (min. length) bolts on 1/16" tubing instead of 1" self drilling bolts:

(25) 7mm X 13mm (min. length) bolts
(25) 7mm lock washers
(25) 1/4" washers

If 7mm used then use self drilling 1/4" X 1" bolts to drill a hole in the aluminum and then back it out. Clear out the PLASTIC ONLY to 9/32". Put a lock washer and then a washer on the 7mm bolt and drive it in.

Use strong pressure when installing the bolts in either configuration to keep the fastener moving into the metal. It will not thread properly otherwise.

Wood Surface (in progress):
-2'-0" X 4'-0" X 3/8" plywood, cut to 2'-6" length.
-Find a "clear" piece, meaning one with no visible knots.
-The wood surface will "float" as a dining room tabletop would. I am going to attach left over 1" aluminum scrap to the bottom of the plywood to prevent any horizontal movement.
-To prevent vertical movement I am going to attach steel brackets to the bottom of the aluminum scrap.
-Vibration will be absorbed by 1" foam weatherstripping.

However I see the top as a work in progress. If I can find something lighter and as strong as the wood I'll use it instead.

Of course there is the issue of how to hook on panniers.

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