Heavy haulin' two wheel trailers

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Permalink Reply by J on January 19, 2010 at 8:20am

OK, I'll try. I'd completely forgotten about the swap! There are only a few left, but I have any on the 6th, I'll bring them.

H3N3 said:

Please please please bring 'em to the swap!
J said:

FWIW, my shop is closing out remaining Burley cargo trailer: $200 for the flatbed, $225 for the Nomad.

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Permalink Reply by Matt M. 18.5KM on January 27, 2010 at 12:21am

Here's the build - I felt like the farmer in "The Pot" video on YouTube since Wike barely left ANY instructions. AND WATCH OUT - ALUMINUM IS EXPENSIVE.

Here's a kit of parts for a 2'-0" wide by 2'-6" long trailer, supporting up to 150 pounds.

Tools needed:
-electric drill
-drill socket to drive in the bolts
-drill bit set
-socket set
-hack saw
-tape measure
-fine tip permanent marker (black/red)
-framer's square or carpenter's square

Parts:

(36) 1/4 X 1" long self drilling hex head bolts, use 7mm X 13mm (min. length) bolts if you strip out any of the aluminum holes. Drill out the PLASTIC ONLY to 9/32" to accept the 7mm bolts before replacing the loose 1/4" bolts.
(36) 1/4" washers
(36) 1/4" lock washers
1"X1" aluminum bar:
(1) 2'-9-3/4" left hand upper side to connect hitch to bike, 1/8" wall
(3) 2'-6" rails at sides, 1/16" wall
(1) 1'-8" transaxle, 1/8" wall, (install at the axle support brackets, determines width)
(2) 1'-8" rails at front and back, 1/16" wall

Total Aluminum needed:

4'-5-3/4" of 1/8" X 1" X 1" tubing
9'-2" of 1/16" X 1" X 1" tubing

Make sure the TRANSAXLE for the wheel mounts is directly in the center of the right side 2'-6" rails. Make sure all your cuts for the aluminum are precise, square, and even.

When using 7mm X 13mm (min. length) bolts on 1/16" tubing instead of 1" self drilling bolts:

(25) 7mm X 13mm (min. length) bolts
(25) 7mm lock washers
(25) 1/4" washers

If 7mm used then use self drilling 1/4" X 1" bolts to drill a hole in the aluminum and then back it out. Clear out the PLASTIC ONLY to 9/32". Put a lock washer and then a washer on the 7mm bolt and drive it in.

Use strong pressure when installing the bolts in either configuration to keep the fastener moving into the metal. It will not thread properly otherwise.

Wood Surface (in progress):
-2'-0" X 4'-0" X 3/8" plywood, cut to 2'-6" length.
-Find a "clear" piece, meaning one with no visible knots.
-The wood surface will "float" as a dining room tabletop would. I am going to attach left over 1" aluminum scrap to the bottom of the plywood to prevent any horizontal movement.
-To prevent vertical movement I am going to attach steel brackets to the bottom of the aluminum scrap.
-Vibration will be absorbed by 1" foam weatherstripping.

However I see the top as a work in progress. If I can find something lighter and as strong as the wood I'll use it instead.

Of course there is the issue of how to hook on panniers.

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