Getting rear dropouts extended 4 mill..by a proffessional? Who will do?
Hi..recently bought a new group set for my 87 Bianchi,which has vintage 105 that's 126 mil in the rear..and Ive been told that the Shimano 5700,modern 105, is 130 mil in the rear..So does anybody know any bike shops or people that can extend the rear dropouts 4 mil..also I go to college at a place called Illinois Institute of Technology,at 31st and NOT the school you see on TV commercials, so if anybody knows any Bicycle shops or people around their that would be great..I can go elsewhere but will take me a few days to get a car,MOM!!,also if the price was reasonable that always thanks for something..Already spent a TON of money..at least for a college student.
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Replies to This Discussion
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Permalink Reply by John C. Wilson on
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The normal abbreviation for millimeter is mm. Mil most frequently is shorthand for thousandth of an inch. You are not extending the dropouts, you are spreading them.
Have your painter do it. It's easiest to do the job with a bare frame. Your painter may not even charge you for the work.
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Permalink Reply by Skip Montanaro 0mi on
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Weren't you going to get it painted? Many painters can do this.
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Haven't decided yet because the new wheel-set and group set put me back a little more than I wanted so I ve emailed Chesters cycles a bit and also a place in bridgeport..point being Ill get it painted probably in two months..so between now and than Id like to put the new groupset on..I have a friend who's a bike mech at a LBS...who's putting everything on for $30 doesn't have the skill to extend the rear dropouts he says..so I just need to find a place that can extend the rear dropouts 4mm,and sorry about the Mil wasn't thinking..Will blue City Cycles do it?Also some people are saying that I don't even need to extend the dropouts because its only a 4 mm difference is that true?
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Ah, in that case, try a shop like Wastyn's, or RRB up in Kenilworth. I'm told that Lou Kuhn at the Pony Shop in Evanston is an excellent mechanic. You might give him a call and see if he can do it or recommend someone in your neck of the woods who can.
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Permalink Reply by Mike Schwab on
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If the new wheel has sealed bearings, you will need to adjust the dropout spacing.
http://sheldonbrown.com/frame-spacing.html
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Permalink Reply by Marcus Moore on
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Aaron- most bike shops can re-space your dropouts and realign them (though some do better jobs than others). I'll second Michael's suggestion of Blue City, in your neighborhood. They also have good bike-painter connections.
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Permalink Reply by Scott Chillson on
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If the frame is Aluminum, forget about it.
If the frame is steel you can cold-set that sucker using a 2x4 as leverage. Check out that Sheldon Brown article from MS. Run a string from the left dropout around the headtube to the right dropout and measure the distance between the string and the seat tube for each side to determine if the triangle is straight.
If you want it done very very well, I've seen Tom Teesdale's work and he's accurate. http://tetcycles.com/bikes/ You'll have to ship.
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If your friend lacks the skill to spread dropouts I'd say don't let him touch the bike period.
It's only 4mm. Shove the wheel in there. You won't get near the spring constant of the steel and the frame will not take a permanent set. Won't hurt anything. This used to happen constantly at races when standard sizes were in flux and spare wheels were shoved in. It will not shift perfectly. It will likely shift adequately.
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Do you guys think I have to worry about the fitting of the new bottom bracket some people said I should be?
John C. Wilson said:If your friend lacks the skill to spread dropouts I'd say don't let him touch the bike period.
It's only 4mm. Shove the wheel in there. You won't get near the spring constant of the steel and the frame will not take a permanent set. Won't hurt anything. This used to happen constantly at races when standard sizes were in flux and spare wheels were shoved in. It will not shift perfectly. It will likely shift adequately.
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Permalink Reply by Gecko on
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Dropouts: As long as your frame is steel, 4mm is a small enough total difference that you can spread the dropouts by hand and force the wheel in there. Surly designed their Cross-Check and a few other steel frames with 132.5mm spacing, so you can run 135mm (MTB) or 130mm (Road) spacing (5mm total difference). An extra 2mm of spread on either side is not a big deal.
Bottom Bracket: If you're using a current-gen 105 setup, just make sure you have the bb with the correct threads on it. Bianchi is an Italian brand, so I would assume it would have Italian threads on the bb (not ISO/English which is common on just about all other bikes).
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+1, it's only 4mm. I wouldn't let that guy work on my bike either. Probably why he's only charging $30.
As far as shifting, the spacing of the wheel has nothing to do with the shifting in this case: it's the skill of the mechanic that makes the difference. The new derailleur will have to be tuned when it's installed, and any mechanic will be able to make the bike shift adequately, but a good mechanic will be able to make the bike shift perfectly.
John C. Wilson said:If your friend lacks the skill to spread dropouts I'd say don't let him touch the bike period.
It's only 4mm. Shove the wheel in there. You won't get near the spring constant of the steel and the frame will not take a permanent set. Won't hurt anything. This used to happen constantly at races when standard sizes were in flux and spare wheels were shoved in. It will not shift perfectly. It will likely shift adequately.
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