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Greetings -- some of you bike in the winter in Chicago, I'm guessing. I have a mountain bike and want to be able to ride in the snow -- what kind of tires do you use? The big knobby ones, like mud tires? That's what I'm guessing, since the snow won't pack in as easily. Is that right?

Ice is a different deal, I know, and I'll probably try to avoid that this year. But in snow, what do you use?

I'm riding from Edgewater to North Ave, early a.m. --

Thanks for any tips or advice.

Michael

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Most people I see use slicks. Snow clearance isn't such a big issue, and if it's icy enough for slipperiness to be a big problem knobbies aren't going to give you much better traction. The most important thing is probably to get a reliably puncture proof tire, because you really don't want to be dealing with flats in the winter.
What he said^

Also, I've found that there is always so much plowing and salting going on on the main arteries that it's not problem. If the side streets arent plowed by the time I leave in the morning then sometimes I may have to walk it a blow before I can start pedeling. If it's a bad enough storm and the snow is accumulating faster than theyre plowing I may let some air out of the tires and it helps with traction.


Dr. Doom said:
Most people I see use slicks. Snow clearance isn't such a big issue, and if it's icy enough for slipperiness to be a big problem knobbies aren't going to give you much better traction. The most important thing is probably to get a reliably puncture proof tire, because you really don't want to be dealing with flats in the winter.
Check out www.icebike.com

Lots of interesting things for the winter rider. More than just tires...
I suggest Panaracer Pasela 26 x 1.75 with full fenders, flat BMX pedals, and boots
Schwalbe Marathon Supremes. Lightweight, smooth rolling, yet with tremendous grip. This is in fact the only tire I have used that won't slip on a wet steel grated bridge. Good puncture protection as well. I've been riding them for the last 3 winters on my winter bike (about 3K miles) and had one flat. They show minimal wear and likely will last for a another number of years. They come in 1.6 and 2.0 sizes.
Thank you all very much! Good links, info, and ideas!

It's all much appreciated --

Best,

Michael
Snow is slippery and sucks. I used to ride at night from Evanston to Edgewater but I do think the knobby tires work a little better than the road tires.

As well as following in the tracks of the cta bus.
regular mtn bike knobby tires have always done me fine, but to be honest so have my cruiser tires. PSI seems, to me, to be the biggest game maker or breaker. Low PSI always seems to work BEST, until of course I get a snake bite flat. Maybe this year I can get those wide rims(snowcat rims/check icebike link above) to try put an end to my mad patch work winter bike tubes.
Glen (FTF) said:
regular mtn bike knobby tires have always done me fine, but to be honest so have my cruiser tires. PSI seems, to me, to be the biggest game maker or breaker. Low PSI always seems to work BEST, until of course I get a snake bite flat. Maybe this year I can get those wide rims(snowcat rims/check icebike link above) to try put an end to my mad patch work winter bike tubes.

And you do not want a flat in winter and for me low psi's sucks as you have to pedal harder.
This is a good thread. I will be out there this year but I haven't ridden much in the winter for the past 20 years so the tech has obviously changed quite a bit since then.

I've got a pair of relatively new Kenda K53's in 26x2.125 and will be running them on a set 1.75 rims. I've run pretty low PSI on 2.125's on these rims in the dirt and never had snakebite issues. I guess I'll be experimenting with pressure and these tires as I go.

I suspect that technique and skill will play a much more important role to safety/survivability than specific equipment, but it always does help that little bit to have what you've got set up correctly. I expect to play it by ear.
So true. The saying 'easy does it' is even more applicable than in summer. Don't try to race that car or other bicyclist to the next intersection. Approach stop signs even more carefully.
And, don't be afraid to take the CTA/Metra if weather is too bad for your taste. After all, it is not a contest and no prizes are handed out at the end of winter

James Baum said:
I suspect that technique and skill will play a much more important role to safety/survivability than specific equipment, but it always does help that little bit to have what you've got set up correctly. I expect to play it by ear.
+1

I used to pretty seriously race off-road motorcycles, amateur AMA Enduro, MX, Hair Scrambles, and even ice racing -in fact that is how I got into mountain bike riding. It was great physical conditioning. Prizes were awarded at each event for various classes, and district points were accrued every year for championship plaques. But ALL survivors were awarded the chance to try again next year...

But on the road with other vehicles and road users it is not a race.

Ride it like you own it -and live to ride again next time.

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