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Is this frame ruined? I'm building up a schwinn frame since my daily commuter cracked on me last week.

So I was spray painting it and just when I got done and was admiring my awesome paint job the hanger it was on gave way and it landed on the head tube right on the concrete floor. Its slighlt dented now where the bearing races would go so I'm wondering now if I would still be able to force them in somehow, bang it out, or just give up on it?

I guess the damage looks worse in person than it does on picture
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I would say it could probably be massaged back into a shape close enough to the bearing race that it could be pressed back in.

If you do it and the race is a little loose Loc-tite makes a product called sleeve adhesive (it's green) that will lock that sucker in there for life.
How do you suggest I do that?

notoriousDUG said:
I would say it could probably be massaged back into a shape close enough to the bearing race that it could be pressed back in.
hey
I just bought a world tour schwinn and i'm trying to take off the quill and i cant figure out how it do it. im problably going to end up taking it in to yojimbo's tomorw.. but i need to know for my self
More than likely the wedge is stuck. Take a mallet and whap the head of the allen bolt which will dislodge the wedge. If you don't have a soft mallet, take a piece of wood, lay it over the head fo the bold, and whap it with a hammer.

No need to take it anywhere is my guess......cheers - Lee

Drew Bly said:
hey
I just bought a world tour schwinn and i'm trying to take off the quill and i cant figure out how it do it. im problably going to end up taking it in to yojimbo's tomorw.. but i need to know for my self
My Goal: to be able to switch between bike forks easily/quickly.
My Idea: have a race installed on each fork.
My Questions:
1. is that a plausible solution?
2. if so, do they sell just a fork race?
3. if so, are there race-headset compatibility concerns?
I proceed this all by stressing my amateur status.

1 - Yes, depending.
2 - Some manufacturers do for some of their headsets. For example, if you have need of a 1" threaded headset, there are two common sizes of forks, and therefore two common sizes of fork crown races. So for many of these you can order the other size fork crown race through a bike shop or a place like Loose Bicycle Parts, but it will depend on the make/model.
3 - Yes. Manufacturers do a lot of things to make their models individualized, partially to keep a market place for parts and specialized tools/technicians, etc. So there is first the compatability of the headset size/type, then the fork size/type, then finding the spare fork crown race to have on your extra fork.



yellow jello said:
My Goal: to be able to switch between bike forks easily/quickly.
My Idea: have a race installed on each fork.
My Questions:
1. is that a plausible solution?
2. if so, do they sell just a fork race?
3. if so, are there race-headset compatibility concerns?
I just got a winter bike; But the seat post is stuck. I can't move it up, down, out. I tryed wd-40, nothing happened. I tryed a pry bar to open up the frame no such luck. I'm thinking about some heat or anything.
WD-40 is NOT a penetrating oil, do not try to use it as such or you will be sorely disappointed.

Remove the bottom bracket and invert the frame, spray penetrating oil down the seat tube several times a day for like a week and then put the seat tube in a vice and twist the frame.



buddaa38 said:
I just got a winter bike; But the seat post is stuck. I can't move it up, down, out. I tryed wd-40, nothing happened. I tryed a pry bar to open up the frame no such luck. I'm thinking about some heat or anything.
A good penetrating spray is PB Blaster. If it can be undone with a lubricant, that is your baby right there. I like notoriousDUG's technique.

Applying heat might work as well, but I am just too stupif to advise on anything like that, but I will say that seized seatposts are tough. I passed on a $50 80s road Bianchi with a seized seatpost a while back just because it is a bit of a gamble as to whether you can get it out without damaging the frame. You made me nervous for example when you discuss using "a pry bar to open up the frame" which doesn't sound like a good idea.
Lee were can I find PB Blaster.

Lee Diamond said:
A good penetrating spray is PB Blaster. If it can be undone with a lubricant, that is your baby right there. I like notoriousDUG's technique.

Applying heat might work as well, but I am just too stupif to advise on anything like that, but I will say that seized seatposts are tough. I passed on a $50 80s road Bianchi with a seized seatpost a while back just because it is a bit of a gamble as to whether you can get it out without damaging the frame. You made me nervous for example when you discuss using "a pry bar to open up the frame" which doesn't sound like a good idea.
PB Blaster is good, but there is some amazing stuff out there geared more commercially; it costs more and you may have to put some effort into getting it but the below items work amazing.

Kroil, this stuff is the gold standard in aviation for a penetrating oil works amazing and is excellent on dissimilar metal corrosion.

Mouse Milk, another aviation favorite works well in my experience.

Loosey Goosey, As dumb as the name is it works quite well.


Heat is amazing at loosening stuck components but not the best on a bike frame IMO, if you have a lugged or fillet brazed frame you have a good chance of weakening the brazing when you heat it up. An aluminum frame is going to not take heat well and it will have a great effect on the hardening and strength of the material, smae goes for Chromemoly or any other heat treated steel.

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