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Permalink Reply by Eric Stuck on March 27, 2011 at 5:27pm

It's a dilemma I'm asked about pretty often.  If you truly are 'hooked', then I'd suggest start saving for a aero bike because it's only a matter of time before your first ironman/half ironman.  If you think you'll be topping out at olympic distance, a road bike conversion might make sense.

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Permalink Reply by Gecko on March 27, 2011 at 7:51pm

I wouldn't worry about frame geometry too much as there are things you can do to make your bike more like a tri bike.  Yes, adding aerobars and a forward seatpost will help, and even though the bottom bracket may be more forward than ideal, you could always raise the stem some (or put one on with more rise) to compensate.  I won't be perfect, but it'll get you closer to tri-bike frame angles.  Also, as long as your seat height is adjusted correctly in relation to your cranks, you shouldn't have knee pain.  The only way I could see it affecting your run would be if your seat was improperly angled and there was a lot of stress on your lower back.  It'll take some tweaking, but as long as your frame has stock racing geometry, your road bike should make a fine conversion.

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Permalink Reply by Jack on March 29, 2011 at 8:39am

I have done an Olympic distance triathlon on a 1995 Aluminum Cannondale (In 2008) without any modifications towards a Tri bike.  That distance is perfectly fine to ride a regular road bike.  I would also argue that if you aren't going to be immersed completely into triathlons, you can stick with a road bike for half IM and full IMs as well.  People do centuries all the time on road bikes.  The advantage of aero bikes are definitely there.  You get less wind resistance and the different angles help you off the bike onto the run.  However, for the coin, unless you plan on doing several halfs or fulls, I would just stick to a road bike.  The aero advantage is good over a long distance, if you can get comfy down in the bars.  I personally use the drops and if I want to lower my time, I put more miles on the bike, not more $$$ into a different one.   If you want most of the aero advantages, put some clip on aero bars on the roadie. 

 

After shopping for a tri bike last year, I eventually bought a CX bike.  I like the ride better and use it more than I would a tri bike since I only do about 2-4 triathlons a year. 

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Permalink Reply by Loren Bo on March 31, 2011 at 3:53am

http://www.bicycling.com/bikes-gear/bike-and-gear-features/revenge-...

"ANY OTHER TRICKS OF THE TRADE YOU'D CARE TO SHARE?

Cote: Most people don't realize that a nonaero helmet creates four times the drag of a nonaero wheelset. So you can spend two thousand dollars on a wheelset, or spend two hundred on a helmet and be faster. How you put your race number on matters more than having an aero wheel; today, we glued on our numbers to get them to fit flatter. Then there's water bottle placement: On a round-tubed frame, having a bottle on your seat tube is more aerodynamic than not having one at all, and it's much more aero than putting it on the down tube. And wearing gloves in a time trial will slow you down more than using a nonaero front wheel."

Someday IIT will have a wind-tunnel big enough...maybe.

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Permalink Reply by Christopher on March 31, 2011 at 4:37am

A forward extended seat post a longer stem and aero bars will make your frame geometry similar to a Tri bike. What it will do it place your torso and your thighs in the right position to avoid knee pain, but your neck pain will increase like it does on Tri bikes. Strengthening your neck is vital, you will be a danger to self and others when you drop your head and face the ground to relieve your neck. Get on machine and work that neck before you get on the road

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