The Chainlink

Advice for Cold Weather Commuter Bicycle

I have been commuting in cool through Hot weather (essentially April to Late November) on a series of 1970's vintage Road Bikes (when they break in an accident, I replace them rather than repair them).   I currently use an early Trek with a Reynolds Steel Frame.  It does not have the geometry for anything larger than the current 27 by 1 and 1/4 inch tires.   Its pretty clear that I need to get another Bicycle for Ice and Snow.    Its hard to teach an old dog new tricks, and I really like the older style large frame size (the Trek's a big frame) and I don't want to go single speed.  I purchased a Trek "city" bicycle about 10 years ago and I shortly thereafter got rid of it.   It didn't feel like I could ride it efficiently and I hated the "index" shifters.   Its a short commuter run (about 12 miles in each direction) so I don't need to go over the top for a "super bicycle".  What should I be looking for.  

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Permalink Reply by Crazy David 84 Furlongs on August 30, 2012 at 1:12pm

Thanks for all of the good advice.   That being said, part of the problem is that I don't really have any tire "options".    ITs a 27 by 1 1/4 tire and the only options that I have found are the Performance Bike Kevlar and non-Kevlar tires and a Bontrager that seems to be highly susceptible to pinch flats.  Do the additional tire options for a 700 cc tire size make that much of a difference?  Would it reduce my "pinch flat" problem?   Getting "stuck" with a flat isn't as bad as it seems in that I ride near a lot of East-West Bus routes that I can always throw the  bicycle on and eventually get home to change the flat in the "warmth" of the garage.

Permalink Reply by Kevin C Dormant on August 30, 2012 at 1:19pm

Chainguards are great for a commuter. Mine does not pack with snow.

I'm assuming you're talking 700C wheels in which case it should accommodate fenders up to 45mm so you should be able to ride a tire width up to 35mm.

Cartridge bearings are good for low-maintenance, but not very owner-serviceable. It's a matter of personal preference.

I'm a big fan of the IGH. I have a 3-speed Sturmey-Archer, but covet the Shimano 8-speeds.


Legacy Frameworks said:

I just had a project for a winter commuter fall in my lap, so this got me thinking. It is good to see some of the suggestions here. 

I'm looking at a budget bike being a single speed with canti brakes.

The upper end would be internal gear hub and drum brakes.

My frames have room for a 50-60mm tire, but sounds like thinner might be better. But I guess you might want to biggest fenders you can get.

Chainguard Maybe? Or would that pack with snow?

I'm guessing cartridge bearings all around would be best, right now my bikes come with 2 of 4 sets of bearings are cartridge.

Anything else I should think about?

Permalink Reply by Legacy Frameworks on August 30, 2012 at 1:33pm

There are still multiple options for 27" tires out there. You can get most of the big names, Conti Gatorskins, Schwalbe Marathons, Panaracer Pasella Tour Guard. There seem to also be some cyclocross tires that have more knobby tread. 

Check your local bike shop, they might not have it is stock, but they can check ordering availability. 

A good set of tires is the first thing I invest in on bikes, I put Schwalbe's on all the bikes I sell.

David crZven said:

Thanks for all of the good advice.   That being said, part of the problem is that I don't really have any tire "options".    ITs a 27 by 1 1/4 tire and the only options that I have found are the Performance Bike Kevlar and non-Kevlar tires and a Bontrager that seems to be highly susceptible to pinch flats.  Do the additional tire options for a 700 cc tire size make that much of a difference?  Would it reduce my "pinch flat" problem?   Getting "stuck" with a flat isn't as bad as it seems in that I ride near a lot of East-West Bus routes that I can always throw the  bicycle on and eventually get home to change the flat in the "warmth" of the garage.

Permalink Reply by Homebuilt on August 30, 2012 at 1:54pm

Don't forget bright lights and reflective clothing. You really want to be seen in those dusk commuting hours. Illuminite fabric is great, look for windbreakers, etc., and don't rely on little flashers for your lights, get some power behind them. Better to annoy and be seen.

Permalink Reply by Crazy David 84 Furlongs on August 30, 2012 at 2:00pm

I wear a bright Orange Shirt, I have two tail lights (one's the little annoying flasher, the other's a bit more substantial) and I have a little light flashing on the helmet and a bigger Bike Planet 2 Watt and an older Cat-eye on the front.  For the winter I plan to add a reflective coat of some sort.   Mind you, the cars still don't seem to see me.

Permalink Reply by Apie (11) on August 30, 2012 at 2:09pm

You could always stick with vintage steel, I know that the older Waterford treks have enough room for 32's and fenders. I think you could easily find a good steel frame with enough clearance, and you can still stick to what you love! I commute 10.5 miles from Harwood heights to the loop, I ride 40's with max pressure. I'm thinking of sizing down a little, to a 35. I rode most of last winter but that doesnt count, I can't wait to ride in some snow this year.

Good luck!!

Permalink Reply by Adam Herstein on August 30, 2012 at 2:12pm

Would an aluminum frame be better for winter?

Permalink Reply by Barry Niel Stuart on August 30, 2012 at 7:26pm

My Jamis Aurora has Continental Contact 700c x37's for the past year, they wear like iron, almost never flat, and grip even in a downpour. Pr4actically nothing stops them except for my bike's brakes.

Permalink Reply by Gene Tenner on August 30, 2012 at 8:21pm

I am a bit prejudiced. In 3 years the only day I could not ride that I wanted to was the LSD-closed winter storm. And, you never fall down.

Permalink Reply by jtwhatever on August 31, 2012 at 5:13pm

Disc brakes! They never lose braking power and perform in ALL weather. Rim brakes, be it canti, v or caliper vary depending on condition because it relies on friction of RUBBER on the rim. I have a bike with caliper brakes and one with disc... WHAT. A. DIFFERENCE. I won't even ride the one with caliper brakes in the rain anymore. I understand some swear by canti and v brakes but they do not stop like disc brakes and with disc, you don't have to replace the pads as often. There are some bikes out there that come with canti/v brakes and also have the option to switch to disc if you want to down the road and vice versa.

Aluminum vs steel... Al will not rust, but it will still corrode and frame saver is usually applied to steel frames (on the interior) to winter proof it (yearly). You can also clean and spray the exterior of a steel frame of the bike with some kinda waxy coat (ask your bike shop for the best kind) to help stave off rust. Besides, the ride quality of steel is more forgiving for your absolutely respectable commute as opposed to Al.

Tires... I feel like it depends on how comfortable you are with your bike handling. It's not always slushy out there for thinner tires to cut through, nor is it always icy out there for tires with a bit of tread and a bigger point of contact to the road surface. I personally switch out my road commuter tires for cyclocross tires in the winter. Whatever your preference, make sure your frame will fit the width of the tire of your choice. Don't expect to fit studded tires on a road bike, for example ;) Oh, and for your size, perhaps sticking with a 700c tire for variety. You'd get less rolling resistance from that size wheel too as opposed to 27". If you feel like sticking to 27", I found that Schwalbe has more of the oddball sizes, but most shops will not carry them.

Permalink Reply by Kevin Mulcky on August 31, 2012 at 7:40pm

I don't think there's any significant difference in rolling resistance between 27" and 700c tires. It's only a 4mm difference in diameter.

I don't anyone has mentioned this yet: The main difference between a winter bike and 3 season bike is that it gets REALLY DIRTY! Get fenders, by all means, and add a full length mudflap that reaches near the ground. Make sure you have a place in your abode that can accommodate snow melt, and dirty water dripping off your bike and boots. You'll also need to oil your chain more often, change brakes more often, and cover your (leather) seat. That's because of the extra dirt, water and salt you'll encounter in the winter.

Special tires are for special circumstances, like ice or off-pavement riding, not really for a commute. There's no reason to upgrade your tire for winter if it's an average road tire. Except, that changing a flat with icy fingers SUCKS.

Permalink Reply by David Lieb on August 31, 2012 at 10:28pm

IMHO, winter commuting calls for bikeS, not A bike. I have an older aluminum bike with fenders and studded 700c snow tires for those awful days. I only ride 8 miles each way. I have an old Schwinn leTour with knobby 27x1.25 and fenders for the pervasive wet days. I have my faithful mid-70s Raleigh Super Course Mk II for the nice days (yes, we get a fair number of those, too). I skipped one half of one commute this past winter due to weather (I felt so guilty about it, I rode a spare bike home from work). The KHS Special with 27" Conti TourRides does backup duty. I have no issues with derailleurs in winter. I loved my old Sturmey-Archer 3-speed and I bet I could still strip that thing and rebuild it blindfolded, but a salty winter ain't good for those, either. I always carry a spare tube as well as a patch kit and pump, since it is challenging to get a patch to adhere to a wet tube!

BTW, I also love my BikeWinter neck gaiter (thanks, Julie!), although I do not wear it the usual wa, but put it from my chin to the upper back of my head so I can breathe through it and also keep my ears warm. That fleece is the only thing I have found that I can breathe through comfortably and it stays in place very well this way, allowing me to easily move it out of the way when desired and back to place when necessary.

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