The Chainlink

Does anyone else think that bicycle prices are just a little bit too high? (Insert Jimmy McMillan meme here) Several years ago, I bought a Gary Fisher MTB for almost $400 and thought at the time that that was a bit too much. Now that i'm interested in riding for exercise i've been looking at 'cross bikes and they average around $1000. Correct me if i'm wrong but in most of my research, most of the major brands manufacture their wares over  in Asia, do they not? I just don't get it. Maybe someone can explain what the hell is going on. Am i gonna have to buy a bike from Bikesdirect.com? Are they decent bikes? Sound off, people!!

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I ride a steel 90's mountain bike converted to a commuter bike; those fenders and rack ain't saving no weight for me.  It is the definition of clunky.  It is as far as you get from a bike built for speed, it is a bike built for utility.  My bike is built to operate trouble free and I don't just ride 2 or 3 days a week; I ride everyday unless I choose not to leave the house.

Your bike probably would work for me but not as well and not as reliably over time.

People spend money on bikes to make them reliable and useful; not just fast.

Clint H said:

Ah ... you must be one of the zealots. That's the thing with these conversations. People have their particular belief system, and everybody else has no idea what they're talking about.

I've had my current bike about five years. I ride about 10 or 15 miles almost every day. A little less in winter, but still two or three times a week. I don't feel like doing math, but I'm sure it's done several thousand miles. I take it in for a tune-up once a year or so. I've replaced no major components that aren't wheels. About once every other year, I get new wheels. (And as I said above, fancy, expensive wheels were not a benefit.)

Now, I'm sure my bike would not work for you. You'd probably find it clunky and uncomfortable, and that's fine. Spend the extra money and get what you want. Meanwhile, I get good mileage out of my bike without a lot of maintenance hassle and can hang very easily with shoalers on fancier models who just assume they're faster than me. My point: My experience won't work for everybody, but it works for me. It won't work for you, so spend the money. It all depends on what you're looking for.



notoriousDUG said:


Buy a $1,000 to $1,500 bike and you will still be riding it pretty much as is several years from now after thousands of miles of reliable riding with only a little bit of regular maintenance and most of the original components.  Your $300 to $500 bike is either going to be relegated to the scrap pile or will have had some major work and component replacement done.

I think the discussion is really about new v. used.  As mentitoned above there is no question that below about $600 you will not get a bike you want to keep when buying new.  When looking used you can find very good machines on a budget if you know who you are dealing with and  what  you are buying. If you are buying new you really want to spend at least $600 depending on what you can part with and what you want to do with your bike.  For years I have ridden with a group that to paraphrase the Blackhawks ad line said that "old steel is nice" and sneered at those in matching kits and titanium bikes. I think we were unfair. If you have the scratch a new machine is nice. I recently did something I rarely do, bought a new bike.  I did not spend gobs on an 18 lb Walter Mitty Racer.  I dropped just under the amount in the original post on a bike that will be my commuter and everybike. Other than air, adjustments and lube I expect to as Dug said, ride problem free for a few years. For those who cannot do that, a good, reliable used machine can be found for significantly less. It will just take patience and time to find the fit both physically and  economically.

I think Dan got it right. Person signed up with a generic name, asked a question in a vague and ambiguous manner, and hasn't been heard from since. Sounds like a troll...

In the mean time Dug and Clint are picking a fight with each other. What was the question again?



dan brown said:

this questions seems like a troll bait. I am reluctant to jump in...but here goes.

 

You can buy a bike cheap several places, but if you are looking at the price of a bicycle at a (locally owned shop to be specific), you are buying a lot more than a bicycle. You are buying a relationship where you want to give and receive good karma. This has come up repeatedly here : purchase a bike (and often certain things are negotiable (i.e. add-ons, swapping out some parts)) at a locally owned shop and the repairs are much more pleasant (quicker, sometimes easy adjustments are done free of charge). Walk into the same shop (for the first time) with a bike bought on-line and the experience may be very different. So far I have always purchased from shops that I like that are close to my house where I feel comfortable having them peform the repairs that I cannot do or choose not to.

 

But to back up a little bit - I'm not even sure what your point or question is.

"Several years ago" a bike was $400 and now they are 'a thousand dollars' ?

Do you have any knowledge of component groups (how they differ) and frame materials, etc.

so you can compare apples with apples ? Also - *when* you purchase a bike has a LOT to do

with the price. I bought my road bike from a local shop right before the owner (a friend) was

going to box it up and ship it back to the mfr (it was a previous year model and no one seemed to

want a 59cm Raleigh (everyone wanted Treks back then)). I ended up getting it for $1300 off

the list price (because he was too lazy to pack it up and ship it back). Timing seemed to

be everything in that case.

 

Clint gave some good advice above and I am sure others can and will too.

 

 

DB

 

I don't think he is talking about used, if he is that is a whole other issue and not really germaine to the original post.

David Barish said:

I think the discussion is really about new v. used.  As mentitoned above there is no question that below about $600 you will not get a bike you want to keep when buying new.  When looking used you can find very good machines on a budget if you know who you are dealing with and  what  you are buying. If you are buying new you really want to spend at least $600 depending on what you can part with and what you want to do with your bike.  For years I have ridden with a group that to paraphrase the Blackhawks ad line said that "old steel is nice" and sneered at those in matching kits and titanium bikes. I think we were unfair. If you have the scratch a new machine is nice. I recently did something I rarely do, bought a new bike.  I did not spend gobs on an 18 lb Walter Mitty Racer.  I dropped just under the amount in the original post on a bike that will be my commuter and everybike. Other than air, adjustments and lube I expect to as Dug said, ride problem free for a few years. For those who cannot do that, a good, reliable used machine can be found for significantly less. It will just take patience and time to find the fit both physically and  economically.

why do we need an original question ??? It's "VENT MONDAY" - the weather sucks, and there

is nothing good on TeeVee tonight (debate vs. bears game vs. game 7 of NLCS).

DB

p.s. there is never anything good on TeeVee...define "good"



Duppie said:

In the mean time Dug and Clint are picking a fight with each other. What was the question again?

 

 

 



dan brown said:

this questions seems like a troll bait. I am reluctant to jump in...but here goes.

 

You can buy a bike cheap several places, but if you are looking at the price of a bicycle at a (locally owned shop to be specific), you are buying a lot more than a bicycle. You are buying a relationship where you want to give and receive good karma. This has come up repeatedly here : purchase a bike (and often certain things are negotiable (i.e. add-ons, swapping out some parts)) at a locally owned shop and the repairs are much more pleasant (quicker, sometimes easy adjustments are done free of charge). Walk into the same shop (for the first time) with a bike bought on-line and the experience may be very different. So far I have always purchased from shops that I like that are close to my house where I feel comfortable having them peform the repairs that I cannot do or choose not to.

 

But to back up a little bit - I'm not even sure what your point or question is.

"Several years ago" a bike was $400 and now they are 'a thousand dollars' ?

Do you have any knowledge of component groups (how they differ) and frame materials, etc.

so you can compare apples with apples ? Also - *when* you purchase a bike has a LOT to do

with the price. I bought my road bike from a local shop right before the owner (a friend) was

going to box it up and ship it back to the mfr (it was a previous year model and no one seemed to

want a 59cm Raleigh (everyone wanted Treks back then)). I ended up getting it for $1300 off

the list price (because he was too lazy to pack it up and ship it back). Timing seemed to

be everything in that case.

 

Clint gave some good advice above and I am sure others can and will too.

 

 

DB

 

This is much more entertaining.  ;)

dan brown said:

why do we need an original question ??? It's "VENT MONDAY" - the weather sucks, and there

is nothing good on TeeVee tonight (debate vs. bears game vs. game 7 of NLCS).

DB

 

I suppose it depends on how you ride and what you want. I shelled out the extra moolah on my recumbent trike to ride throughout the winter without falling down when I hit unseen ice. However, the unseen benefit of complementing my photography addiction was a surprise. Then I gave up my car and saved $10,000 per year, making the trike investment a pittance compared to what I was saving each year. I have the perfect bike for me, and 'tis worth every penny.

I have my glasses on and it appears that the original post boils down to "bikes cost too much." Perhaps I expanded on that but feel I was reasonably close to the thrust of the thread.  New bikes cost a lot more than used ones.  If he wants to spend about $400. He can buy a new piece of crap or a very good used machine. If he gets close to the $1000 that he complained about he can indeed get a nice new shiny bike.  That's what I did.  How is that?  Is it within the lines?

Just because a bike is made in Asia doesn't mean it's junk or that it should be cheap. My vintage '80s MTB was made in Taiwan. It's pretty great. It's a (pre Trek) Gary Fisher. It's been converted to a commuter style bike with smoother, skinnier tires. It also has fenders and a rack. It's perfect that way.

 

My other bike is a mid-80s Trek road bike. I love it, too. The bike was probably built in USA, the steel is Japanese. I sometimes wish it had more modern shifting (instead of friction shifting) but overall, she's a great machine and I feel extremely confident riding my bike--enough to have had the frame repaired when it broke. I ride this bike daily and rather aggressively at times.

 

OP are you doing market research? None of the things you stated in your original post seem germane to a conversation about the price of bikes. Like it seems like you wanted to hear, "You should buy X bike that's X$ because it's great."

 

Are you looking for cheap? If so, you might try finding something used. Are you looking for new? You'll often have to pay more for a better, more reliable bike. Imo, a lot of over-generalizations are often made about bikes that made are in Taiwan. They're not necessarily inferior or made under inhumane conditions on the cheap. Some are (to be sure), but not all of them. Many of the better manufacturers (names you know that aren't big box store concerns) outsource to the Far East because there aren't a lot of North American or European manufacturers who are equipped to do the volume they might want.  And that doesn't necessarily mean it's cheap labor or junky production. Just MORE. Small builders who make things stateside are just that--small. They often can't often accommodate their own orders in a timely fashion, much less those from a bigger company. 

 

At the crux of the matter, I'm interested to know why your Gary Fisher isn't useful for "exercise." If you're thinking of cx racing, it seems to me you might as well start on a lower price point for a cx bike and then work your way up to a bike that you want if you find that your "exercise" routine works for you. Without knowing you, my guess is that your $400 MTB was not the thing you needed or wanted in the first place. (That happened to me. I made adjustments to my MTB and now I ride it all winter and in any inclement weather.) 

 

I probably should add that I'm a vintage clothing dealer. I ride older bikes. I really don't buy a lot of new stuff.  I like older furniture. I am a staunch believer that older stuff is often made better.  If you're set on a new bike, research, test ride, and save your money for a bike you love. 

 

 

It all depends on how much you want to ride it.  A cheap big-box store is a fine bike if you are only going to ride it a couple times a year.   A $600 "new" bike is fine if you are only going to ride a couple times a week. It'll take a few tune-ups here and there to keep it going.

But if you are going to ride every day, putting a hundred miles a week in, you are going to need to spend some money to get a bike that isn't going to fall apart or take a trip to a mechanic every month to keep in tune.

Bikes can be lightweight, or they can be tough, but the more lightweight or the more tough you want to make it so that it can ride every day without needing constant trips to a qualified mechanic the more it's going to cost you to get something that is going to be rugged.   If you want a super-lightweight bike that put on thousands of road miles between tune-ups it's going to cost thousands of dollars.  Even a heavyweight tough everyday bike is going to cost a bunch of money too.

$1000 is the price of a TV set.  Can you really expect to purchase something new that costs less than that which will allow you to ride day after day and roll out thousands of miles without needing to be constantly adjusted?   You get what you pay for.    If you don't care about riding junk you are going to have to pay some money to get that.  You might be able to save some money by buying a more vintage bike that was high-end in its day but is forgotten by today's riders as a high-quality bike.  But just because something is vintage doesn't make it a good bike.  You have to know what you are dong to get quality vintage bikes.  

in the end there are no short-cuts.   Either you need to really know bikes to find vintage deals, or you are going to have to spend money to get modern tough reliable bikes.

There really is no such thing as a free lunch.   If you don't like that just buy a cheap big-box at walmart.  

if you buy something from Bikesdirect.com you also need to know what you are doing too.  Some of that stuff has low-end components on it.  Much of it poorly set up.  But if you know how to wrench you can get some massively crazy deals.   But if you buy BikesDirect you miss out on the expertise of your LBS.   That's worth something.  You better have some knowledge of your own or you are going to dive straight into the empty pool when you find yourself up the river without a paddle when things start going wrong. 

I can't help but wonder if this poster is looking for people to do market research..."I don't get it...what the hell's going on?" You see, you're supposed to name the make and model of the bike that you bought that you like that you paid $X for. That will become a springboard for how to do that same thing cheaper. (Maybe even at Bikesdirect!) 

I used to have similar strategies for crowd sourcing things except that we didn't have the internets back in 1927.  I was a sales manager on the phone talking to sales reps who sold the stuff my company made along with similar stuff made by competitors. You can learn a lot when you act kinda dumb. I mean, how can this question be real? There are bikes that are hand built that cost a lot more than $1K. There are light weight racing machines made for more than just tooling around town that start at $4K. There are cheapie crap bikes from Wal-Mart for less than $3 hundo. To go from a $400 MTB to a $1K CX bike and wonder what to buy that's not a thousand dollars seems to me like fishing. Is the OP saying, what's less than $400 that's good? Or, is he saying, "Is there anything less than $1K that's any good for exercise?"

Real concerns that could or should be addressed by a good LBS might include many things;  "How often do you ride? Where do you ride (paved trails, streets, dirt --all of the above)? Do you want to haul stuff? Are you planning to use your bike for long distance rides? What's your aesthetic?" etc. 

Bikesdirect must be the target demographic or the demographic this poster wants to capture. I hope I speak for most of us here when I say that we at the Chainlink are not Bikesdirect people. 

You folks are reading into this a little too far. 

I get asked this same essential question, in person, nearly every time I go out to an event. Why should I pay for X when Y is cheaper and does the same thing. This is not a marketing ploy, it is simple consumerism - Rob Young trying to get the most for the least, like all of us.

Just educate yourself as to exactly what the most and the least are to you. I like to turn to the chainlink for informed opinions, they are here, you just have to do a little wading to get to them.

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