The Chainlink

"Sheldon Brown" locking technique--personal experiences

Hello,

I've read a lot of opinions about the Sheldon Brown lock strategy (http://sheldonbrown.com/lock-strategy.html). I understand that it can be defeated by cutting through the wheel, and that this is not as difficult to do as Sheldon claimed in that article.

However, I'm really interested to hear whether this actually happens much in Chicago (cutting the wheel), whether people still use this method, and whether they've had any problems with it.

I have an Abus Futura Mini that is too small to lock through both the frame and wheels (they have deep V rims which make them a little too wide (but maybe these are also a little harder to cut through?)). I really love the light weight and size of this lock and I would like to find a way to make it work rather than replacing it with something bigger and heavier. It is the perfect size for the Sheldon Brown method. Alternatively, of course, I could lock it through only the frame (but not the wheel). I'm wondering which is the better course of action.

Potentially-relevant details: I never leave the bike outside overnight. Usually when I'm locking it it's because I'm shopping or at a bar or restaurant, so it's there for a few hours maximum. The bike is a new (but low-end) single-speed hybrid/commuter/utility type bike. Wheels are bolt-on, not quick-release.

Thank you in advance!

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Thanks, Adam.

Adam Herstein (5.5 mi) said:

Now this I know a little more about... I don't think there's anyone out there who can cut through a decent U-lock in under 10 seconds with a handheld battery operated angle grinder.  Also, while Li-ion has some advantages over the traditional Ni-Cad, I don't think it's generally going to give you more torque so not quite sure why you're mentioning that battery chemistry specifically.

peter moormann said:

Sawzalls and bolt cutters have become obsolete since  the  Li Ion powered angle grinder became avaiable at your local Home Despot.

The disc grinder can fit in a handbag and cuts any common metals, hardened or annealed, fiberglass, carbon fiber.......

They are a quite loud but in competent hands can slice through any lock  or chain or cable in under 10 seconds.

A hacksaw can do similar work in a more stealth approach  but will make the perpetrator "earn" his heist.

http://www.homedepot.com/p/t/203361189?productId=203361189&stor...

Now no bike lock can truly "secure " your bike.

Thanks-- 25-30 seconds for a pro under ideal conditions is about what I'd expect.

Wondering what the point of exxagerating how quickly a U-lock can be cut is. Are you trying to discourage people from using them?

peter moormann said:

under 10 seconds might be an exaggeration, but definitely under 30 seconds... in the dark.

Nothing to do with torque.

Battery longevity is crucial as you don't want to fail a job because of a mechanical issue: loss of power.

If using battery power and an abrasive disc, when you press harder trying to use torque to remove the metal faster it only creates more friction slowing down the motor and unloads your battery, as this disc needs to operate at 9000 rpm for cutting efficiency.

Only the lightest touch of the 1/16" thick abrasive blade is necessary to remove the metal.

Now when using a toothed blade you will  have a gain with more torque but you must operate at much slower cutting speeds and have a motor with greater amperage to produce torque.

I can cut 4 passes through your lock with 1 disc and 1 battery.

Hardened steel takes only a few seconds more than ASTM-36 mild steel which is what the pole you lock your bike up to is made of.

I can cut 3 sections of   1 1/2' schedule 80 structural tubing with 1 battery and 1 cutting blade.

Look on any  bike lock manufacturers owners info. or web site ..they do not mention any type of protection from such cutting tools.

Instead they offer you an additional insurance policy.

Locks are good security but can only slow down the theft, not prevent it.

I use this cutting wheel daily by the way:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_embedded&v=lQRAolvd...!

ill still use the Sheldon Brown technique. 

At the end of the day, if someone really wants your stuff they will get it one way or the other. 

Someone stole my girlfriends derailleur a few years ago...waddya gonna do?

But please don't use his leaving the lock on the rack technique. The bike rack in my office building is so littered with mostly abandoned bike locks that some of the spaces are actually un-usable.

Jason said:

ill still use the Sheldon Brown technique. 

...

What Jason says sums up bike security. It's all about deterrent. The bigger hassle you make it for them to steal your bike, the better. Sheldon Brown's technique is effective, but not theft-proof. Nothing is. As Peter above mentioned, "Locks are good security but can only slow down the theft, not prevent it." That's the goal, here.

I suggest stop arguing about cutting time for a lock vs. rim, steel vs. aluminum. Whether it's "a pro under ideal conditions" or not. There's no such thing as an ideal condition for a thief. 

If a thief knows anything about the bike he (or she) is targeting, he/she will cut the lock, not a rim. A rim certainly would be easier to cut, but in the long run, wouldn't be worth it because the (rear) wheel is the second most expensive component on a bike, much more than a U-lock. Oh, the thief will just get a new rim? Yeah, taking his rattling, missing-metal-chunk mess into a shop to get the cassette/FW removed? Yeah right. Oh, he already has a rim? Still gotta buy a new tire, tube, the FR-5 Park Tool to get the cassette off, plus the chain whip to get it back on.

The economics don't make sense. The amount of effort, work and anxiety of being seen is what keeps a thief from stealing your bike. Think about it. For a thief, the opportunity cost of cutting the rear rim (plus tire, tube, cost new rim/tools/doing a favor for a fellow thief or buddy that has those) is the money he would've made if he just cut the lock and sold the bike as is. The thief would be better off stealing an angle grinder and blowing through the mild steel U-lock, with bike intact.

As Sheldon Brown claims, rim cutting does not happen in the real world. And he is right. So don't worry about it. If it's ever happened to you, A) Sorry for your loss, that sucks, and B) Your thief is an idiot/bad economist.



Jason said:

At the end of the day, if someone really wants your stuff they will get it one way or the other. 

A chainbreaker is pocket-size and makes quick work.

I think the point is that for a determined bike thief who knows what they want, there ain't nothin' you can do.

Handlebars have a decent resale value, and all you'd really need is an allen wrench and some cablecutters for the brake cables. Who locks up their handlebars? It's all fair game to a thief. The idea is to determine what you can protect and what degree of protection is reasonable for you install.

peter moormann said:

Dont you need to get the chain off first...

Thats a lot of work.

Jason said:

ill still use the Sheldon Brown technique. 

At the end of the day, if someone really wants your stuff they will get it one way or the other. 

Someone stole my girlfriends derailleur a few years ago...waddya gonna do?

I actually think the poster has a good question. Thieves, like all of us, make decisions on the margins.  

As some of you read (per my recent post), several thieves were recently caught having just removed the front tires from  my bike (and somebody else's). I would not have thought a bunch of kids would bike around with an Allen wrench but they did.  They did not have an angle cutter with them nor a hacksaw to cut through a tire. Obviously it is hard to explain to the police why  you are biking around Chicago with these tools (they were not charged with stealing my tire as the police said it couldn't be proven they removed it).

I was interested in the post because I too use Sheldon's method to lock my bike. For me the rear tire is more critical as I have internal gears and it'is worth about $250 new.

Given the value of that rear tire, and what I read here, I am now taking the extra 15 seconds it requires to thread my ulock through the rear stay so cutting the tire wont' be sufficient.  I won't do that if I'm only stopping somewhere for fifteen minutes or I'm in a place I don't think the serious thieves will be around.

My advice to the poster is since you like the lock, mainly lock the bike at night, and don't have a really expensive bike,  I would stay with the Sheldon method.  I think it's unlikely - but not impossible - that your bike gets taken.  

For me, I have a rack so carrying a larger lock is no problem and if my bike get's stolen - as it recently was - it takes me a month to get a new one, tires, etc. Better to use a large u lock and solidly lock the frame.  With a less expensive bike I would have no trouble relying on Sheldon's method if carrying a large lock was a hassle.

I locked using the Sheldon Brown method this morning. I will let you know if my bike gets stolen.

Please do. I will place the odds at .3452% that your bike ever gets stolen assuming you park at night, for a few hours, don't have a high value bike, and use the Sheldon method with a U lock.  

I was thinking of your situation this am. FWIW, I have never in three years of biking/commuting every day seen a sawed off bike wheel. While some bike thieves do use cars/vans, the majority just bike away with your bike.  Having a wheelless bike would make that difficult.

That being said, I believe you understand that better security would be threading a u lock through the chainstay. But Sheldon was the man and I do trust him (that's why I used his method until a few days ago when I realized I could threat the chain stay without much additional effort).

I only lock up during the daytime in a heavily-trafficked area in the Loop – luckily, my apartment has a bike room. I'll go try to see if I can thread the lock through the chainstays. I've got a New York Fahgettaboudit Mini lock and I was left wondering this morning if a thief could pop the real wheel off and fit the lock in-between the chainstays, since it's a fairly small lock.

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