Replies to This Discussion

Permalink Reply by Tony Adams on July 6, 2009 at 4:57pm

I just did my rear hub for the first time in my long life of biking. It is hugely satisfying once you get it right.

I got my bearings at Kozy, but only because both Irv's and Blue City were out of 1/4 inch size. Kozy only had Grade 300 bearings. The lower the number, the better the bearing. The interweb conventional wisdom suggests getting the best bearings you can - that is, get grade 25 if you can. As for a hardware store... I dunno - they might have them.

I used some Lithium grease I had laying around from working on my motorcycle. It seemed to work fine. My more bicycle-centric wrenching friends use something in a green tube. I'm sorry I forget what it is called.

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Permalink Reply by dan brown on July 7, 2009 at 1:54am

thanks a bunch Tony. this is great info.


DAN

Tony Adams said:

I just did my rear hub for the first time in my long life of biking. It is hugely satisfying once you get it right.

I got my bearings at Kozy, but only because both Irv's and Blue City were out of 1/4 inch size. Kozy only had Grade 300 bearings. The lower the number, the better the bearing. The interweb conventional wisdom suggests getting the best bearings you can - that is, get grade 25 if you can. As for a hardware store... I dunno - they might have them.

I used some Lithium grease I had laying around from working on my motorcycle. It seemed to work fine. My more bicycle-centric wrenching friends use something in a green tube. I'm sorry I forget what it is called.

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Permalink Reply by David Travis on July 7, 2009 at 2:28am

Dan,

Get good quality bearings. (And get a few extra.) Who knows when you will be back in there next. Also very, very helpful is a magnet. I use one of those small ones on the end of that looks like a car antenna. That way you do not have the little orbs rolling around under things you would rather not move. They also seem to acquire a cloak of invisibility one they escape.

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Permalink Reply by Gecko on July 7, 2009 at 3:04am

+1 on all the stuff about the bearings. Also, make sure you have the correct bearing size for your hub shell and cones or things won't work quite right. Just have the shop measure the old bearings and get direct replacements.

About the process, it helps to remove the freewheel before you try to take the axle apart. Also, you'll need cone wrenches (for bearing adjustment) if you don't have them already. The easiest way to remove the axle is to remove the cone/locknut on just one side, leaving the other one where it is. That way when you go to put it back together everything's where it should be. And take note of which side of the axle goes where (don't reverse the axle when you put it back in or the spacing will be off) and also note what order the cone/washer/locknut assembly goes, as some hubs have a certain way they're assembled that can throw off the spacing if done incorrectly. Also, I find it easiest to remove all the bearings from the hub, clean thoroughly, and put about a 1/4" bead of grease in the hub shell where the bearings should be. That way when you're ready to install the bearings, you just press them into the grease and the grease holds them in place until you're ready to install the axle (unless you bump the wheel sharply).

This grease works really well, we used it at the shop I worked at. Specifically designed for bicycles and you can use it pretty much anywhere. Hub bearings, headsets, bottom brackets, quill stems, seatposts, water bottle bolts, etc.

And I'd say it depends on your riding style, but usually the rear bearings wear out faster (more direct weight over them plus much more force from the drivetrain). If your front bearings feel smooth when you take the wheel off and spin the axle, they should be fine, but if you have an older wheelset that's seen a lot of miles, it might be a good idea to rebuild the front as long as you're doing the rear. Even just removing the old bearings, cleaning everything and repacking with new grease can rejuvenate an old hub.

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Permalink Reply by dan brown on July 7, 2009 at 3:10am

thanks Ed. All great info.
DB

El Gecko said:

+1 on all the stuff about the bearings. Also, make sure you have the correct bearing size for your hub shell and cones or things won't work quite right. Just have the shop measure the old bearings and get direct replacements.

About the process, it helps to remove the freewheel before you try to take the axle apart. Also, you'll need cone wrenches (for bearing adjustment) if you don't have them already. The easiest way to remove the axle is to remove the cone/locknut on just one side, leaving the other one where it is. That way when you go to put it back together everything's where it should be. And take note of which side of the axle goes where (don't reverse the axle when you put it back in or the spacing will be off) and also note what order the cone/washer/locknut assembly goes, as some hubs have a certain way they're assembled that can throw off the spacing if done incorrectly. Also, I find it easiest to remove all the bearings from the hub, clean thoroughly, and put about a 1/4" bead of grease in the hub shell where the bearings should be. That way when you're ready to install the bearings, you just press them into the grease and the grease holds them in place until you're ready to install the axle (unless you bump the wheel sharply).

This grease works really well, we used it at the shop I worked at. Specifically designed for bicycles and you can use it pretty much anywhere. Hub bearings, headsets, bottom brackets, quill stems, seatposts, water bottle bolts, etc.

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Permalink Reply by Duppie on July 7, 2009 at 3:32am

Tony Adams said:

My more bicycle-centric wrenching friends use something in a green tube. I'm sorry I forget what it is called.

That would be this product. I use it myself and are quite happy with it. That tube should last a long time.
Duppie

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Permalink Reply by Bikefreeek on July 7, 2009 at 3:38am

West Town Bikes has the grease, bearings, tools and know how for you to learn and get the job done right. You'll learn about the "click", the "crunch" and how to anticipate the cone tightening when going to lock down the locknut. There's more than one way to skin a cat (and you can read all about it on the interwebs), but little can compare to getting the "hands on" to learn something mechanical.

See you tonight at WTB!

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Permalink Reply by dan brown on July 7, 2009 at 3:39am

nice !

thhanks a ton : c u 2nite.

DB


Bikefreeek said:

West Town Bikes has the grease, bearings, tools and know how for you to learn and get the job done right. You'll learn about the "click", the "crunch" and how to anticipate the cone tightening when going to lock down the locknut. There's more than one way to skin a cat (and you can read all about it on the interwebs), but little can compare to getting the "hands on" to learn something mechanical.

See you tonight at WTB!

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