The Chainlink

Is there a way to raise locking technique awareness?

A while ago I was near "The Green Mill"/"Crew" and I saw 6 bicycles locked within 15 feet of each other that were locked horribly. Most of them used cheap keyed cable locks securing only their frame or frame and front wheel to rack/post. 1 had the cheapest U-lock possible securing only the frame. 4 out of 6 all had quick releases, the ones that secured their front wheel didn't have quick release.

There were 2 that were exceptionally bad though. One had a knockoff Kryptoflex cable locking his frame and front wheel, the cable was held together with a high school style Master lock to the rack. The other actually had a decent U-lock (not sure of brand) but the U-lock was only secured to the frame, the part that secured the bike to the rack was a very thin piece of cable that was attached to the U-lock going around the bicycle rack. 

The items that I linked aren't precisely the same ones but are very similar items to give you an idea of what I'm talking about.

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Permalink Reply by Kevin C Dormant on August 9, 2013 at 10:09am

This should be avoided at all costs. A 12" pair of bolt cutters will liberate your (u-lock-hobbled) bike in less than 15 seconds. Better than "no lock" but only barely.

Gold Coast Fixed said:

[snip]

If not I only lock the frame and the front wheel and use the cable to anchor it to something.

Permalink Reply by Gold Coast Fixed on August 9, 2013 at 10:12am

Thanks for the advice, I'll keep that in mind next time I think about locking it that way.

Kevin C said:

This should be avoided at all costs. A 12" pair of bolt cutters will liberate your (u-lock-hobbled) bike in less than 15 seconds. Better than "no lock" but only barely.

Gold Coast Fixed said:

[snip]

If not I only lock the frame and the front wheel and use the cable to anchor it to something.

Permalink Reply by Charlie Short 2.9 on August 9, 2013 at 10:30am

I am not defending the ABUS lock, but I've heard a couple of things about it:

1. The most expensive version is nowhere near an equally (or lesser priced) U lock, but it is more secure than a cable lock.

2. A bike shop that I frequent started selling this most expensive ABUS model because customers complained that they didn't like carrying a "heavy" lock, but would then get their bikes stolen because they were using nothing. They actually won't recommend that lock until a person has said they wont carry a U lock.

Permalink Reply by Jessica Hunk on August 9, 2013 at 11:33am

My comment is more for the folks who want to improve the security of their bike. Recently I had my bike stripped of everything that wasn't locked up. (I use a Kryptonite U-lock with a Kryptonite cable to lock up my frame and both tires.) The shop where I got my replacement parts, recommended using wood glue (more secure than Elmers, easier to remove than crazy glue) to secure components that I don't adjust regularly. If you want to adjust/replace the component, then all you have to do is apply a little heat (blow dryer) and remove the glue with a safety pin. Replacing components can be just as costly as replacing a bike, so every little deterrent really makes a difference.

Permalink Reply by Wolf-Pup on August 9, 2013 at 11:39am

I have some ideas of what NOT to do. Don't lock your bicycle to my (or anyone else's) bike lock or brake cable. I sadly had to leave someone's bicycle unlocked since some fool locked their bicycle to my lock. Not sure if it was intentional... The second time someone locked their lock to my brake cable. Rich S. came to my rescue. This happened downtown Northwestern Memorial Hospital. The person left his/her bike there for days. Fools.

Permalink Reply by Sarah D. on August 9, 2013 at 11:51am

I use pinheads for the wheels (I know there's a better German brand, but that's down on my spending list) and a cable for the saddle and an Abus double deadbolt to lock the frame to a secure bike rack. I feel pretty secure, but you really never know.

It's hard enough to find safe things to lock to with just that one place of attachment (my u-lock), but if some of you are advocating u-locking more than just the frame, what are you saying we should lock to?

Permalink Reply by norman kaeseberg on August 9, 2013 at 12:45pm

the inside (free space) of my closed and locked Masterlock Ulock is 4 1/8" x 8 1/8". my second Ulock, an X2 power lock, has 4 5/8" x 9" of free space locked, a full half inch wider, enough wiggle room to lock my front wheel and frame to a standard bike rack.  The smaller Ulock goes around the rear wheel and the frame. A cable lock rolled up on the top frame slides through my removable seat. I have a way too fat Trek frame (1 3/4", so this should work for almost anybody's ride. Take a tape measure and shop around. Bigger is definitely better as far as Ulocks go. (I got mine at Amazon)  

Permalink Reply by Sarah D. on August 9, 2013 at 2:54pm
This is a great thread - would love to hear from h' or Kevin on this one, cuz I've been thinking for the past coupla years that the *smaller* the u-lock, the better, because there's less room to get a tool (jack, etc) in there.



norman kaeseberg said:

the inside (free space) of my closed and locked Masterlock Ulock is 4 1/8" x 8 1/8". my second Ulock, an X2 power lock, has 4 5/8" x 9" of free space locked, a full half inch wider, enough wiggle room to lock my front wheel and frame to a standard bike rack.  The smaller Ulock goes around the rear wheel and the frame. A cable lock rolled up on the top frame slides through my removable seat. I have a way too fat Trek frame (1 3/4", so this should work for almost anybody's ride. Take a tape measure and shop around. Bigger is definitely better as far as Ulocks go. (I got mine at Amazon)  

Permalink Reply by h' Zerocats on August 9, 2013 at 4:32pm

There's been little evidence over the years that anyone is actually prying open U-locks. And the "freon" trick can fairly be described as an urban legend where Chicago is concerned.

One exception-- some thieves, generally more the "street folk" variety than the "drive around in a van and collect nicer bikes" variety, will try twisting the bike like a giant wind-up key if they think they have a reasonable shot at popping the U-lock that way based on its quality (see norman's Masterlock above.)

So I would say there's a small chance that having more play in the U-lock might increase the ease of this method.

Sarah D. 1-3.3 said:

This is a great thread - would love to hear from h' or Kevin on this one, cuz I've been thinking for the past coupla years that the *smaller* the u-lock, the better, because there's less room to get a tool (jack, etc) in there.



norman kaeseberg said:

the inside (free space) of my closed and locked Masterlock Ulock is 4 1/8" x 8 1/8". my second Ulock, an X2 power lock, has 4 5/8" x 9" of free space locked, a full half inch wider, enough wiggle room to lock my front wheel and frame to a standard bike rack.  The smaller Ulock goes around the rear wheel and the frame. A cable lock rolled up on the top frame slides through my removable seat. I have a way too fat Trek frame (1 3/4", so this should work for almost anybody's ride. Take a tape measure and shop around. Bigger is definitely better as far as Ulocks go. (I got mine at Amazon)  

Permalink Reply by Sarah D. on August 9, 2013 at 4:57pm
Thanks!


h' 1.0 said:

There's been little evidence over the years that anyone is actually prying open U-locks. And the "freon" trick can fairly be described as an urban legend where Chicago is concerned.

One exception-- some thieves, generally more the "street folk" variety than the "drive around in a van and collect nicer bikes" variety, will try twisting the bike like a giant wind-up key if they think they have a reasonable shot at popping the U-lock that way based on its quality (see norman's Masterlock above.)

So I would say there's a small chance that having more play in the U-lock might increase the ease of this method.

Sarah D. 1-3.3 said:

This is a great thread - would love to hear from h' or Kevin on this one, cuz I've been thinking for the past coupla years that the *smaller* the u-lock, the better, because there's less room to get a tool (jack, etc) in there.
Permalink Reply by El Dorado on August 9, 2013 at 8:51pm

I have a regular size Kryptonite NYC yellow lock. I plan on getting the mini version as well. The steel in these higher end locks are supposedly harder to cut. I read a UK article that it would take around 8 minutes with a grinder to cut through both sides on these monsters. I believe Abus makes very strong (maybe the best) high end U-locks. The Granite I think is the best. However, I wouldn't trust these Links. They look like twisted legos & can probably be snapped apart.

Permalink Reply by h' Zerocats on August 9, 2013 at 9:57pm

Here's a report from Wednesday where one of the double-shackle U-locks took two cuts:

http://chicago.stolenbike.org/node/194425

An experienced thief with a good grinder could probably cut a New York lock in under 2 minutes.

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