The title says it all. It seems like when the temps begin to dip into sub-20F then all of my so-called "technical apparel" seems to be almost useless, not that it pretty much all sucks at just about any temperature anyway. I've gotta bike 11.5 miles all on the LFP - out there completely exposed for pretty much my entire ride. I didn't ride the last couple days because I was a bit concerned about ice on the LFP, mainly because it doesn't seem to get salted very thoroughly. I was also concerned because I don't have any gear for super-cold weather unless I start dipping into regular people clothes which are not necessarily breathable, don't have pit zips, not made of wool, etc. I have a 100 percent wool commando sweater that would probably work well as a mid layer under a winter coat and I was thinking I could double up with my thinner tights underneath my thicker windproof/waterproof tights. Feet are a problem though. If I keep riding clipless I can only fit a thin pair of wicking socks under some Wigwam Merino wool socks, all crammed into my cycling shoes with some neoprene booties over the outside. My feet can get cold even on days in the higher teens or even low 20s, let alone single digits or minus single digits. I don't want to have to keep riding the bus and train because I REALLY HATE THE BUS! Once I get my car fixed that's always an option, but I would prefer to ride if only I can just find some way to do it an not be miserable.

Views: 2529

Reply to This

Replies to This Discussion

So about those goggles -- recommendations? Last night was super fun but many times I could barely see for all the snow in my eyes, sticking to my lashes, etc. So, is there a pair of goggles out there that's not too much $$ and somehow defeats the fog problem?

It is all about loft.  Loose fitting layers from head to toe.  Wind resistance outside, wool/fleece inside.  If any part feels like 10 pounds shit/5 pound sack, it'll get cold.

http://kroopsgoggles.com/bicycling/goggles I use the regular goggles (tinted) and they fit fine over my eyeglasses. For bulkier sunglasses you'll want to go with the glasses specific ones but they'll be bulky. 

Clip in pedals make a metal connection that conducts the cold. Swithing to plastic platform pedals and winter boots will keep your feet warmer. Most importantly don't sweat. I like to be able to un-zip all the way to the base layer to vent extra heat. Carry a pack for the layers that may need to be shed or added on the way. Another helpful hint is to add a very small amount of vodka to your water bottle to keep it from freezing. Yes notoriousDUG cowering is coping, so is taking the bus. =D

notoriousDUG said:

Does cowering in a corner sobbing and trying to warm up my fingers count as coping?

When I started biking for transportation on of my goals was to ride year round using as little specialized or expensive clothing as possible.  For the most part I have been successful are that and with few exceptions I have been pretty successful at this.  Up until this season I have been 100% successful with that but a much longer commute has forced me to suck it up and buy a couple pieces of special gear.  I used to work outside in all conditions for years in conditions in which expensive high performance cold weather gear ends up destroyed pretty quickly.  Here's what I have learned about keeping warm over the years.

Starting at the bottom with the feet I wear a pair of Goretex insulated boots I picked up on clearance at an outdoor goods store some years ago; they were still pretty expensive but have lasted forever because they are quality boots and I only wear them when it is very cold or very wet.  I wear them over two pairs of socks, if I have enough clean ones I go for at least one pair of wool otherwise I just use white athletic socks.  The key to warm feet is to keep out the wind and the wet; if you have that covered and some decent layers you will stay warm and toasty.  Also if you are going to have your feet on the ground a lot thick soles are good because the insulate your feet from the cold ground more.

Legs wise I keep it simple just long underwear and whatever pants I would normally wear.  For long underwear I just use old school cheap ass cotton/poly stuff and it works just fine.  If it is really cold I will wear my rain pants over that for an extra layer and to keep the wind out.

Core and arms I rely on layers, layers and more layers. I usually wear a t-shirt and long underwear or a long sleeve t-shirt with a flannel shirt or some kind of sweater or other shirt over it.  Over that I wear a mid weight coat I got for free from some vendor years ago; it's not water proof but water resistant enough it's OK in snow.  If it really nuts cold, below zero and such, or I am going to be out a long time and not active I wear a hoodie under that or a parka. 

For my hands I also rely on layers.  I have used all form of glove liner, cotton, wool and synthetic and, in my opinion, what the layer is made of is less important than having the layer regardless of what it is.  If you have small hands buy larger good insulated gloves and wear a couple of liners under them.  I, sadly, cannot do this because my hands are large enough it's hard enough finding gloves that fit will with one liner.  For the outer I had been using good water proof insulated gloves, having good dexterity has always been important to me in my glove choices,  but this year have moved to lobster gloves and the difference is huge.  I highly recommend lobster gloves or mittens.

For the head I use a Bern helmet with a winter liner and a fleece head band from the bike winter folks for my ears and for head.  Up until this year I just used a scarf and safety glasses but my new longer commute showed that to be insufficient so I have gone and picked up some special gear.  I got a face mask and some ski goggles.  With that setup I have a warm head and face and it rocks.

Outside the bike stuff I have found that if you have to be outside for along period of time the above combinations (wool hat instead of a helmet) plus a set over insulated coveralls will keep you warm outside for ridiculous amounts of time.

When I head out for my winter rides (usually between 30-60 miles) and the temps are low, I go with the following:

Hands: merino wool glove liners, Craft Siberian gloves (put an extra pair of glove liners in a pocket, they'll get sweaty, and you'll want to change them if you stop somewhere)

Head: Merino wool helmet liner and fleece neck collar

Torso: Merino wool baselayer, Merino wool blend long sleeve jersey, or if it's really cold a winter jersey, wind stopper softshell jacket

Legs: Knee warmers, Gore wind stopper softshell tights

Feet: Merino wool liners, merino wool thermal socks, Lake Cycling CX140 winter shoes, neoprene overshoes

With the feet, if you want to keep riding clipless you just may have to bite the bullet and get a pair of winter cycling shoes. Shimano, Lake and Mavic all make pretty good ones. It sucks, because it means spending more money, but it really beats the alternative. If you don't want to shell out for winter shoes, a buddy of mine uses a pair of regular cycling shoes one size too large, so he can wear a heavier sock underneath.

And remember, stopping the wind is waaaay more important than insulation. If you have the right layers on, your body heat from cycling should be enough. It's the wind that'll make you cold and miserable. If you use wind stopper shells on your legs, torso, hands and feet, you should be plenty warm in almost any weathers.

Where do you get the Merino wool blend long sleeve jersey?

Brian Thomas said:

When I head out for my winter rides (usually between 30-60 miles) and the temps are low, I go with the following:

Hands: merino wool glove liners, Craft Siberian gloves (put an extra pair of glove liners in a pocket, they'll get sweaty, and you'll want to change them if you stop somewhere)

Head: Merino wool helmet liner and fleece neck collar

Torso: Merino wool baselayer, Merino wool blend long sleeve jersey, or if it's really cold a winter jersey, wind stopper softshell jacket

Legs: Knee warmers, Gore wind stopper softshell tights

Feet: Merino wool liners, merino wool thermal socks, Lake Cycling CX140 winter shoes, neoprene overshoes

With the feet, if you want to keep riding clipless you just may have to bite the bullet and get a pair of winter cycling shoes. Shimano, Lake and Mavic all make pretty good ones. It sucks, because it means spending more money, but it really beats the alternative. If you don't want to shell out for winter shoes, a buddy of mine uses a pair of regular cycling shoes one size too large, so he can wear a heavier sock underneath.

And remember, stopping the wind is waaaay more important than insulation. If you have the right layers on, your body heat from cycling should be enough. It's the wind that'll make you cold and miserable. If you use wind stopper shells on your legs, torso, hands and feet, you should be plenty warm in almost any weathers.

Rapha, Ibex, Smartwool, Sugoi, Castelli, etc... all make them. Rapha, Castelli, Giordana, Sugoi, and a few others also make heavier weight, fleece backed winter jerseys.

Just google "Merino Wool Cycling Jersey" and you'll get more than enough options. Not too many LBS in Chicago carry this kind of stuff, so you'll probably have to order it online.



Gene Tenner said:

Where do you get the Merino wool blend long sleeve jersey?

Brian Thomas said:

When I head out for my winter rides (usually between 30-60 miles) and the temps are low, I go with the following:

Hands: merino wool glove liners, Craft Siberian gloves (put an extra pair of glove liners in a pocket, they'll get sweaty, and you'll want to change them if you stop somewhere)

Head: Merino wool helmet liner and fleece neck collar

Torso: Merino wool baselayer, Merino wool blend long sleeve jersey, or if it's really cold a winter jersey, wind stopper softshell jacket

Legs: Knee warmers, Gore wind stopper softshell tights

Feet: Merino wool liners, merino wool thermal socks, Lake Cycling CX140 winter shoes, neoprene overshoes

With the feet, if you want to keep riding clipless you just may have to bite the bullet and get a pair of winter cycling shoes. Shimano, Lake and Mavic all make pretty good ones. It sucks, because it means spending more money, but it really beats the alternative. If you don't want to shell out for winter shoes, a buddy of mine uses a pair of regular cycling shoes one size too large, so he can wear a heavier sock underneath.

And remember, stopping the wind is waaaay more important than insulation. If you have the right layers on, your body heat from cycling should be enough. It's the wind that'll make you cold and miserable. If you use wind stopper shells on your legs, torso, hands and feet, you should be plenty warm in almost any weathers.

My daily ride is only a mere 8 to 10 miles round trip, but I still get cold sometimes, and usually its lack of preparation.  Having not checked to see that a temp drop in the evening will leave me aching for that heavier pair of gloves or face mask is a thing of the past.  I agree 100% on the lobster gloves, and Smartwool is one of my favorites for socks and other stuff.  Also, I'm in agreement with "h" about your tight shoes.  With no room in your shoe for your toes to move, they get cold real fast! However, I believe its really about half gear, and half mental.  The number one thing that keeps me warm in the frozen outdoors is that I like to sing while I ride.  Keeps my mind off the cold and warms me up too!  Give it a try!  Also, think warm thoughts!  I know it sounds ridiculous, but I used to work outside year-round for years, and this works!  Layer, start with and keep your hands and feet warm and dry, be prepared to shed layers if you get too hot, and bring an extra layer or two in case you are too cold.  Imagine you are on an island or somewhere wonderful, and before you know it, you"ll be at your destination.  Whatever you do, aim to enjoy the ride and don't hesitate to stop if you need to adjust/warm your fingers up against your skin for a minute or two.  Ride safe!

Ok well my first suggestion would be not to ride "kilted" ahaha.

But seriously, I was facing the same problem with my feet on my 15 mile commute. Winter cycling shoes (either Lake or Sidi) are amazing but amazingly expensive. As a cheaper alternative (assuming you have a pair of wind-and-waterproof, non-cycling boots/shoes) you could look at getting a pair of Power Grips for about $25. They're not quite as stiff-feeling as riding clipless but they're hands-free and will let you use regular shoes while still adding efficiency to your pedaling, and relieving pressure on the soles of your feet. Also look at some neoprene socks to go over your woolies.

Bravo. Yes on the Power Grips. I have used them for years and the toes do not go numb anymore. Plus, they free you up to use whatever shoe or boot you want to stay warm.

Adam Batty said:

Ok well my first suggestion would be not to ride "kilted" ahaha.

But seriously, I was facing the same problem with my feet on my 15 mile commute. Winter cycling shoes (either Lake or Sidi) are amazing but amazingly expensive. As a cheaper alternative (assuming you have a pair of wind-and-waterproof, non-cycling boots/shoes) you could look at getting a pair of Power Grips for about $25. They're not quite as stiff-feeling as riding clipless but they're hands-free and will let you use regular shoes while still adding efficiency to your pedaling, and relieving pressure on the soles of your feet. Also look at some neoprene socks to go over your woolies.

I'm a recent (just this winter) convert, but I was pleasantly surprised at how well they ride. I made fun of my dad for years for using these instead of clipless pedals, but I guess he gets the last laugh.

You mean that the latest race-oriented hardware isn't always the best choice for city riding?

SAY IT ISN'T SO!

Adam Batty said:

I'm a recent (just this winter) convert, but I was pleasantly surprised at how well they ride. I made fun of my dad for years for using these instead of clipless pedals, but I guess he gets the last laugh.

RSS

© 2008-2016   The Chainlink Community, L.L.C.   Powered by

Disclaimer  |  Report an Issue  |  Terms of Service