Lets pool all of our knowledge together for one singular goal...WORLD DOMINATION! Oops! Wrong thread. Please post all of you tips and tricks/do and don'ts of locking your bike and theft prevention. Please be as specific as possible. Around the middle of January I will compile all of the information, research said information (to the best of my ability), and create an official how to for all cyclist. If for some reason you have volumes of information you can email me at 2poler@gmail.com, if you feel the urge to help with this task also feel free to contact me.
Thanks,
Joe
Tags:
Well done, Joe. Thanks.
Nothing wrong with heavy, ugly and cheap ... been that way most of my life.
S.Presley said:
I don't think these were expansion anchors (what are expansion anchors?). These appeared to be simple non-threaded bolts. I should have taken a shot before I pulled them out. Before I touched them, they were half out of the ground and bent (you can see the bends if you look closely). From my eye it looked like someone took a heavy duty crowbar to them.
Cameron Puetz said:
Looking at those pictures it looks like that rack may have been poorly installed rather than vandalized. It's very difficult to remove properly installed expansion anchors. If the goal was to make a sucker rack, it would have been much easier to remove the rack from the bolts and leave the bolts in the ground. If you look at places where the city has removed racks, typically the bolts are left in the sidewalk and ground down even with the pavement. Looking at the bolts laying next to the rack in your pictures, they look like sleeve anchors that were removed whole. I don't know of any way of doing that without tearing out a chunk of concrete around them.
Joe TV said:I came across something new today: a sucker RACK. In Lincoln Square, I found a common U-shaped bike rack, and I was about to lock up to it, when I noticed that the bolts fastening it to the concrete were half removed and bent.
Further inspection revealed that the bolts were easily removable by hand and the rack was not secure at all. I proceeded to pull all the bolts and remove the rack from it's usual footprint, so as to prevent anyone from locking up to it.
Seconds later I spotted a beat cop on foot and told him about it. He told me that there had been a rash of bike thefts in the area of late and that he would address the issue right away. I also popped into the 47 ward Aldermanic office and they were very receptive to the situation as well.
Thank you, Kevin!
Kevin C said:
I have the same EVO 4 mini (bent foot) that is usually too small for me to lock through the frame, wheel and an object, so I use it on the front wheel and frame. The NY lock is the better lock of the two. You have a solid anti-theft plan.
Meg Matthews said:Thanks! So far I've been able to find something secure to jam the U-lock onto, so I'll stick with it for now.
Call me paranoid but I lock up with a large chain that goes around my waste and 2 different U-locks.... yes it's a lot carry but it makes me more sane when I lock my bike up outside.
I have one like this(with double dead bolt), It's an onGuard brand.
I was looking through my tool box recently and found the(5) keys that it came with...one with a working light.
The kicker is, I left the lock at my old apartment two years ago on the fence. I went back there last night on my way to the North~side Mass and it was still there, so I grabbed it.
It worked like a charm,even in the sub zero weather, after all this time.
Kevin C said:
I call you "prudent."
Little Phil said:
Call me paranoid but I lock up with a large chain that goes around my waste and 2 different U-locks.... yes it's a lot carry but it makes me more sane when I lock my bike up outside.
So last night I got to attend a 'lock cutting party' hosted by a lock company rep and had a chance to damage a fair amount of locks of different brands and I thought I would share a little bit of what I learned with you kids here on The Chianlink.
The first, and most disturbing fact, is that if you lock your bike up outside there is NO 100% safe locking option because in the age of cordless angle grinders you have no hope unless you plan on carrying a lock that weighs more than you do. Even the massive top of the line Kryptonite can be cut through in about a minute and a half; the Evo line in less than a minute. Your lock is nothing more than a deterrent and it is less a matter of if it can be defeated but how long it takes to be defeated. Apparently 3 minutes is about the maximum your average thief is going to spend dicking around trying to boost your bike so you want to aim at a lock solution that will hold up for over 3 minutes, which is harder than you would think...
So this guy,
Your basic cable lock can be cut in about 30 seconds with nothing more than a pair of simple wire cutters. This applies to pretty much every average sized cable out there. Bolt cutters it's not even a second. Your secondary cable lock that you are using to secure your wheels? Yeah, 30 seconds it's gone and so are your wheels... The next step up is a shielded cable which cannot be cut with just wire cutters but is still no match for bolt cutters. Anything with a cable is, in my opinion not even worth using in Chicago unless you feel like giving your bike away.
Above that you have chains. Smaller chains, under 9mm, can be easily cut with average sized bolt cutters and the link often only has to be cut once because it is hardened to the point that it blows apart the link when one side is cut. Over that size you need giant cutters but they can still be clipped, better chains take two cuts but lower quality ones that are not hardened as well can blow both links apart. Interesting side note; chains with the Cordura cover anchored at the ends add an additional deterrent because it needs to be cut as well where ones that are not anchored the chain can just be pulled out. One manufacturer is even selling one with an even tougher outer cover to add and extra bit of time to how ling it takes a thief to steal your bike. Like anything else the grinder owns a chain, it takes less time to cut a chain than a lock and chains with mini u-locks are a target because the lock is easier to cut than the chain. There is a big difference in the chains brand to brand to; certain manufactures have a tougher chain than the rest if you want to know what I feel is best message me and I'll tell you but I want to try and avoid bashing or pimping any brands here.
When it comes to u-locks there is a huge difference in locks. I got to destroy a few brands of lock and I'm here to tell you there is a massive difference lock to lock. I wanted to try and not get into brands but you're going to know what is what based on details of the locks so I;m just going to toss out some things I learned.
So one big myth is that a double dead bolt requires two cuts, this is flat out untrue of certain brands of locks. You can twist them open after they are cut. The twisting attack works surprisingly well on lower end locks and ones with only one dead bolt. One brand of lock, while on par with others shackle wise, has a lock body that is surprisingly easy to cut. Bigger is not always better, one manufacturers giant heavy lock cuts in equal time to a smaller, lighter, lock of better quality steel from another manufacturer, equal security but big weight penalty.
Long story short:
My opinion the best you can do for locking up your bike is either two high quality u-locks or a lock like the Abus Bordo. Slightly below that is a pair of chains or a combination of a chain and a u-lock or Bordo. Basically a single lock, no matter the lock, means a well equipped criminal can have your bike in under two minutes.
Also, interesting fact: If you have an Abus lock you can order any Abus lock that uses the same series lock cylinder keyed to match your other lock(s). How cool is that!? I am dreaming of a day in my future where I only have one bike lock key!
Great info, Doug. Thanks for the "field test" and reviews.
notoriousDUG said:
So last night I got to attend a 'lock cutting party' hosted by a lock company rep and had a chance to damage a fair amount of locks of different brands and I thought I would share a little bit of what I learned with you kids here on The Chianlink.
If you get anymore info on that can you pass it on to me? I am interested to know more; is it one complete link or just what's left of a cut one?
h' said:
I've written twice to the recent CSBR victim who reported finding only one link of their Abus chain to see if I can get more details about the chain/lock but have not received a response.
notoriousDUG said:So last night I got to attend a 'lock cutting party' hosted by a lock company rep and had a chance to damage a fair amount of locks of different brands and I thought I would share a little bit of what I learned with you kids here on The Chianlink.
The first, and most disturbing fact, is that if you lock your bike up outside there is NO 100% safe locking option because in the age of cordless angle grinders you have no hope unless you plan on carrying a lock that weighs more than you do. Even the massive top of the line Kryptonite can be cut through in about a minute and a half; the Evo line in less than a minute. Your lock is nothing more than a deterrent and it is less a matter of if it can be defeated but how long it takes to be defeated. Apparently 3 minutes is about the maximum your average thief is going to spend dicking around trying to boost your bike so you want to aim at a lock solution that will hold up for over 3 minutes, which is harder than you would think...
So this guy,
Your basic cable lock can be cut in about 30 seconds with nothing more than a pair of simple wire cutters. This applies to pretty much every average sized cable out there. Bolt cutters it's not even a second. Your secondary cable lock that you are using to secure your wheels? Yeah, 30 seconds it's gone and so are your wheels... The next step up is a shielded cable which cannot be cut with just wire cutters but is still no match for bolt cutters. Anything with a cable is, in my opinion not even worth using in Chicago unless you feel like giving your bike away.
Above that you have chains. Smaller chains, under 9mm, can be easily cut with average sized bolt cutters and the link often only has to be cut once because it is hardened to the point that it blows apart the link when one side is cut. Over that size you need giant cutters but they can still be clipped, better chains take two cuts but lower quality ones that are not hardened as well can blow both links apart. Interesting side note; chains with the Cordura cover anchored at the ends add an additional deterrent because it needs to be cut as well where ones that are not anchored the chain can just be pulled out. One manufacturer is even selling one with an even tougher outer cover to add and extra bit of time to how ling it takes a thief to steal your bike. Like anything else the grinder owns a chain, it takes less time to cut a chain than a lock and chains with mini u-locks are a target because the lock is easier to cut than the chain. There is a big difference in the chains brand to brand to; certain manufactures have a tougher chain than the rest if you want to know what I feel is best message me and I'll tell you but I want to try and avoid bashing or pimping any brands here.
When it comes to u-locks there is a huge difference in locks. I got to destroy a few brands of lock and I'm here to tell you there is a massive difference lock to lock. I wanted to try and not get into brands but you're going to know what is what based on details of the locks so I;m just going to toss out some things I learned.
So one big myth is that a double dead bolt requires two cuts, this is flat out untrue of certain brands of locks. You can twist them open after they are cut. The twisting attack works surprisingly well on lower end locks and ones with only one dead bolt. One brand of lock, while on par with others shackle wise, has a lock body that is surprisingly easy to cut. Bigger is not always better, one manufacturers giant heavy lock cuts in equal time to a smaller, lighter, lock of better quality steel from another manufacturer, equal security but big weight penalty.
Long story short:
My opinion the best you can do for locking up your bike is either two high quality u-locks or a lock like the Abus Bordo. Slightly below that is a pair of chains or a combination of a chain and a u-lock or Bordo. Basically a single lock, no matter the lock, means a well equipped criminal can have your bike in under two minutes.
Also, interesting fact: If you have an Abus lock you can order any Abus lock that uses the same series lock cylinder keyed to match your other lock(s). How cool is that!? I am dreaming of a day in my future where I only have one bike lock key!
This morning, after leaving the heavy Abus chain beast outside for the last couple of weeks locked around a city U-post, completely exposed to all the slush and crap on the street, the beast refused to open. It was just frozen shut. It was also looking much more sad than when I toted it home each night. My U-Lock also seemed partially frozen (it also apparently prefers being coddled in my panniers). Fortunately, I was able to unlock the beast by dumping some hot water on it. After cleaning it up and re-lubing the tumbler and sliding mechanism, I think I will return to carrying these things around.
Like the Black Heron said, I'm lugging at least 20 pounds of crap in my bags anyway. Why not boost that by 40%!
Joe Studer said:
I actually carry this beast on a daily basis, worried that leaving it locked to the rack where I work (a square tubed city rack directly adjacent to Wacker Drive) would expose it to dirt and grime that would ultimately affect the lock's operation. Am I overthinking this?
That beast is heavy.
Kevin C said:Bike Registry security chain and lock.
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