The Chainlink

Hey gang.  I think this winter finally killed my old Master lock u-lock.  It had been sticking for a while but last night I could barely get it open to ride home, and once home couldn't open it at all to check it out.  Does anyone have a recommendation about a great lock they've been carrying around for a while?  Thanks!

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One could steal the bike in that picture with no tools at all in the same amount of time.

James Baum said:

Sheldon had some good ideas but when it comes to his locking theory of using only the rear wheel through the rear triangle he's totally wrong.   

 

Gone in 20 seconds!

 

 

For those who point out that it ruins the wheel remember that finding another rear wheel to replace the one sawed is not a difficult feat for a thief!

This is a really helpful thread. I want to also mention that I started using Master Lock Street Cuffs to lock my trailer. I wanted something more than just a cable lock which is what most people use. I don't know if they are a good second lock or not, but I figured since they are used to lock motorcycles they might be a good option. Plus it comes with an anti-theft guarantee up to $3500. The cuffs are a bit heavy but I've found that I can lock the trailer to all kinds of posts, bike racks, and even park benches without too much trouble. Anybody else have experience with these or know if they are a good option? I've been using mine all winter and so far so good.

 

I'm glad to learn that I should be using multiple locking mechanisms, especially since more bikes are out and about and I presume it is now prime season for theft. Thanks!

Thank you for mentioning those cuffs- I may have to get some to try that with the trailer we have now- although I have some large U-locks for the trailer and a cable, it really is hard to secure a trailer in some areas and I hate using a cable for anything due to how easy it is to cut them.  

Sarah G said:

This is a really helpful thread. I want to also mention that I started using Master Lock Street Cuffs to lock my trailer. I wanted something more than just a cable lock which is what most people use. I don't know if they are a good second lock or not, but I figured since they are used to lock motorcycles they might be a good option. Plus it comes with an anti-theft guarantee up to $3500. The cuffs are a bit heavy but I've found that I can lock the trailer to all kinds of posts, bike racks, and even park benches without too much trouble. Anybody else have experience with these or know if they are a good option? I've been using mine all winter and so far so good.

 

I'm glad to learn that I should be using multiple locking mechanisms, especially since more bikes are out and about and I presume it is now prime season for theft. Thanks!

I hope it doesn't require the destroyed cuffs to make good on the theft protection.

Our most prolific theft crew does not leave lock pieces behind.

Sarah G said:

 Plus it comes with an anti-theft guarantee up to $3500. 

Maybe a c-wrench is all.

H3N3 said:
One could steal the bike in that picture with no tools at all in the same amount of time.

No, no tools. Won't post how to do so publicly.

Davo said:
Maybe a c-wrench is all.

H3N3 said:
One could steal the bike in that picture with no tools at all in the same amount of time.

Unless thats a quick release or you have gorilla hands, you have me stumped.

I tend to Sheldon-lock my bike with an Evo-mini, partially depending on where I'm at.  I think that in a lot of ways where and when you lock your bike has a lot more effect than how you lock it, and I'm lucky in that my bike isn't left outside overnight or all day. 

 

Although I've seen this video before, my basic theory with the sheldon method is that it pays to be different.  This lock style is rare enough that I can't imagine serious bike thieves wandering the city with hacksaws looking for back-tires to rip up.  Requiring the thief to destroy the back tire makes the bike just a little less attractive to steal and makes it just a little more obvious that there's a theft going on.  If you've got an angle grinder you're going to get the bike anyway, but this method makes it just a little bit harder to saw off the lock without damaging the bike (just a little, I admit).

 

Does this work?  I honestly have no idea.  Decent stats on bike theft are really hard to come by.  I'm not really sure what percentage of thefts are opportunity thefts vs. people who make their living from bike theft.  I think once you pass a certain minimum (i.e., lock it to something decent with a u-lock), it's really just luck after that. 


James Baum said:

Sheldon had some good ideas but when it comes to his locking theory of using only the rear wheel through the rear triangle he's totally wrong.   

 

Gone in 20 seconds!

While the hacksaw trick works well to defeat the Sheldon method I don't see one is going to pull the whole tire through the rear triangle very easily.  Sure, you could taco the wheel but it would be a bitch getting it all through the rear triangle without scratching the hell out of the paint or maybe even denting or bending it.  It'd take longer and still ruin the wheel if not the frame too.

 

The only reason why Sheldon's method works is because almost nobody uses it and the thieves haven't adapted to it or figured out just how damn easy it is to hacksaw through a flimsy tire and a skinny alloy rim.  

 

Security through obscurity is a huge trap..

Is the Sheldon way just through the back tire like the video? I don't understand why one would just lock the tire through the rear triangle instead of using the lock around at least part of the frame.

Quoted from Sheldon Brown http://www.sheldonbrown.com/lock-strategy.html:

 

People tend to buy the big clunky U-locks because they don't know how to use them properly. A U-lock should go around the rear rim and tire, somewhere inside the rear triangle of the frame. There is no need to loop it around the seat tube as well, because the wheel cannot be pulled through the rear triangle.

Some will object that felons might cut the rear rim and tire to remove the lock. Believe me, this just doesn't happen in the real world. First, this would be a lot of work to steal a frame without a useable rear wheel, the most expensive part of a bike, after the frame. Second, cutting the rear rim is much harder than you might think. Since the rim is under substantial compression due to the tension on the spokes, it would pinch a hacksaw blade tight as soon as it cut partway through. Then there are the wire beads of the tire, also difficult to cut.



Davo said:

Is the Sheldon way just through the back tire like the video? I don't understand why one would just lock the tire through the rear triangle instead of using the lock around at least part of the frame.

Test Sheldon's theory by just locking the rear wheel of your bike and see if the thieves don't take it because without the rear wheel (the most expensive single part of the bike). 

 

Finding a bike with an unlocked rear wheel in the correct size takes all of what, 45 seconds in this city?  5 minutes max if you have to walk down the street a block.   In a typical rack there is always one bozo who doesn't lock up his wheel(s).   I don't care if you have locking skewer, there is a really simple way to defeat those too with a common tool that can be bought in any second-hand store for $.50 or a dollar store for $1.  don't want to get into it here but the thieves know what it is already.  

 

The idea that someone won't take a bike without a working rear wheel is beyond being out of touch.  Rear wheels are easy to steal or to swap with other thieves.  

 

 

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