The Chainlink

I have 2 issues.
1. the frame on my Trek 820 cracked/broke by the wheel. Can it be welded/fixed or is it not worth it?

I could put the parts on another frame if I can find a cheap used store around town City of Chicago.

2. My back up bike a 1975 Schwinn 10 speed that has problems with the "snake bite" flats from low pressure and yesterday after getting a new tube and getting it up to 80 psi it blows out!!!

I can use my single speed cruiser for trips close but not practical for a 14 mile round trip commute.


Pleeez help I don't want to spend the rest of summer riding the cta.

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It can be welded. I suppose whether or not it's worth it depends on how much you're charged for the repair.
How tall are you/what size do you need?
i have a trek frame that cracked clean through at the neck. has this happened to a lot of people with treks. i welded it back together today. i took crappyu pics with my cell and uploaded them to the clink. id be happy to help you out if you want
It could be that the tire is not wide enough for the rim. I went to wider tires and it stopped. Not sure about the frame, I know some frames are warrenteed for a long time on stuff like that.
I believe all treks and companies that trek bought(LeMond, Gary Fisher, Klein, etc) out have lifetime warranties. Google Village Cycle center(largest Trek dealer in the nation) and give them a call.

I had a '06 Lemond filmore with a crack in the seat tube so I brought it in without any paperwork, they sent it into Trek and I got a new frame in a matter of weeks!
I'm 6'5" so whatever size that is.
H3N3 said:
How tall are you/what size do you need?
Yeah this is a 1990's trek and I got it used, a $25-50 weld if it works would be fine with me. I'm heading to a used bike store today so we'll see. This is my winter/everyday bike so it's pretty beat up I wonder if the salt got at it, not really good at cleaning after my winter rides.

Fred Noinaj said:
I believe all treks and companies that trek bought(LeMond, Gary Fisher, Klein, etc) out have lifetime warranties. Google Village Cycle center(largest Trek dealer in the nation) and give them a call.

I had a '06 Lemond filmore with a crack in the seat tube so I brought it in without any paperwork, they sent it into Trek and I got a new frame in a matter of weeks!
You could fix the frame, or use it as an opportunity to try a different style (road or cyclocross? or even hybrid?). How happy are you riding MTB on that long of a paved commute?

With the Schwinn though, check if the flats are definitely occurring on the part of the tube that doesn't sit on the rim. If they are, just try to keep better pressure or upgrade the tires. (It could have blown out >80psi too, because the bead wasn't seated correctly, wrinkled tube etc.)
If they're occurring more on the rim though, try replacing the rim strip--especially if it's that crappy plastic stuff. Or just wipe away dust, and make sure nothing's hiding in your tread. If you already have puncture proof tires, sometimes nearly microscopic pieces of thorns, glass, etc. are just hiding in the tread and gradually wear away a hole in the tube. In which case you should get a bright adjustable lamp, glasses or contacts, tweezers, and maybe a beer or two.

I might have had experience with all or none of these issues...
fucking flats..
Mike- I think for your own safety you should consider replacing your Trek 820. Aluminum frames have a finite lifespan - although manufacturers disagree on the specifics, it would be safe to say 5 - 20 years, depending on how the bike has been ridden. A crack could indicate underlying fractures.

http://www.science.ca/askascientist/viewquestion.php?qID=2178

Re Schwinn flats, Not Nathan is right, could be a tire sizing issue. Also, check your rim tape. Also, you could try running your finger along the inner rim walls, to check for obstructions.

b
WOOT! The guy welded it for $25 looks good and since it's my "beater" winter ride I'm happy.

Audrey, thanks that's what the bike shop said and since it's a steel rim they gave me some tips even thought the tires are rated and made for newer bikes 65-70 psi is what they recommend for mine.

I need to save my $ as I want a new hybrid more upright with thinner tires possibly an electric assist pedal recharge type.
Yeah, after I posted I realized that I was assuming 700c (in re: >80psi), because I was fixated on my own technical issues/experiences. Proper psi levels obviously vary tire to tire. Sorry 'bout that. Glad it turned out well!

Mike Zumwalt said:
WOOT! The guy welded it for $25 looks good and since it's my "beater" winter ride I'm happy.

Audrey, thanks that's what the bike shop said and since it's a steel rim they gave me some tips even thought the tires are rated and made for newer bikes 65-70 psi is what they recommend for mine.

I need to save my $ as I want a new hybrid more upright with thinner tires possibly an electric assist pedal recharge type.
You don't really know much about welding, do you?

There is no alloy used in bikes that is going to be very hard to weld.

Clark said:
Mike Zumwalt said:
WOOT! The guy welded it for $25 looks good...I want a new hybrid...possibly an electric assist pedal recharge type.

What the heck is that?

And insofar as you've welded the frame, I'd be a bit careful. The specs for a Trek 820 say the frame is "custom steel" which probably means some kind of alloy. Alloys are usually tough to weld...or braze. At 6'5" you're a big boy, and you don't want that frame snapping at the repair and collapsing, in a busy intersection, just as you're crossing in front of a garbage truck speeding down on you. Large frames, with long tubes, are subject to more stress and fracture than smaller frames -- longer lever-arms tend to magnify forces.

I'm not sure, but it sounds like your frame cracked at the top of the down tube. This is a very vulnerable area on a bike frame...anytime you hit something with your front wheel you stress this area. I'm 6'5" too. I once carelessly rolled forward and lightly (I thought) struck the rear bumper of a car with my front wheel. When I got home I saw that I'd cracked the top of the down tube. My bike mechanic ended up replacing the whole tube...he said there was no other safe alternative. Be careful.

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